d2_p01 ( 01L )
  Diary Of European Trip.
  Oct. 23- 1908
  Basle - Momence.
  Varnum A. Parish.
  Momence. Ilinois. 
  U.S.A.
d4_p02 ( 01R )
  Oct 23 - 1908. Friday.
  Weather very cold. Rode 30. Total 2,035. Roads
  fine. Strong wind against. Slept in barn last night.
  Trifle cold. House wife still angry. Would let us in to
  wash. Left place almost 8. Breakfasted in little dorf
  down road, in wirtschaft. Max had bun. I had 1 liter
  hot milk, 1/2 liter coffee, 2 big rolls. Cost 50 pflennigs
  Max got his money from a priest. Rode thru
  Habshem, Ensisheim arriving at Rufach
  at noon. Staying with Mrs. Jurascheck, a distant
  relative of Jury's. Two nice French women +
  old grandmother, that is Mrs. Jurascheck, sister +
  mother. Very clean house. This part of Germany was once
  part of France. Still retains French cleanliness. Hostility
  between French + German. French language not permitted
  in public school. Had elegant dinner,-soup, sardines,
  macaroni, omelett, French fried potatoes,
  cake, fruit, plumb preserves, bread, 4 kinds of wine.
  Some wine 84 yrs. old. I drank a glass of the old wine and
  then took two flasks of water while Max continued on
  the wine. Nothing but wine is drunk here at dinner
  and supper. Dinner took from 1-3. Max + Mrs. Jurasch-
  eck visited town after dinner while I wrote a letter
  to F. I got bit by a dog today.
d4_p03 ( 02L ) 
      Sunday. Oct. 25-1908. Weather, cold, damp
  and dark, one inch of snow; last forenoon. Rode 54
  Total 2098. Colmar, Ostheim, Schlettestadt,
  Sermersheim, Strassburg. Egisheim, the dorf
  we spent night in has the most irregular streets of
  any village or city I was ever in. They aren't streets
  at all, just places between the houses. Egisheim
  is right at the foot of a mountain on whose
  summit are the ruins of an old castle. Went to
  7 o' clock mass in Egisheim. Returned to Gasthaus;
  breakfasted on rolls + coffee, (30 pfennigs); left hause
  at 9 A.M. Rode to Colmar. Max visited Mrs. Jurascheck's
  son at sister's school in Colmar. Got to Sermerheim
  at noon. Dined at catholic pfarrer's; two house-keepers,
  his nieces. Got puncture on horse-shoe nail this
  P.M. Took just 20 minutes to fix it. Rode thru
  an inch of snow nearly all afternoon. Roads
  sloppy this P.M. Got in Strassburg about 3.
  Remained til 5. Visited there the cathedral
  (built 1015-1439) spire 465ft; building of a 
  sort of red sand stone; fine windows; fine front,
  lots of carved stone work; astronomical
  clock in transcept. Visited art museum
d4_p04 ( 02R ) 
  in old schloss near church. Saw St. Thomas's
  Church and another church called New Temple.
  Staying with farmer north of Strassburg about
  10 miles. Country today level, orchards,
  sugar beets, grapes; Fruit trees along roads.
  Excellent road bed, else we couldn't have ridden so
  far today thru snow and slop. The farmer with
  whom we are staying is also a miller. We
  are sitting in living room. The house wife and
  the girls are knitting. The hired man is sleeping
  over in the corner. The old mill in the other end of the
  house ( house + mill all one building ) is busily,
  not busily but untiringly turning. Had
  coffee + bread for supper. While we were eating
  supper the little eight year old daughter stuck
  her head in the room and said "good night"
  in English. I am wearing wooden shoes
  while my own are drying.
      Monday Oct. 26-1908. Weather cool,
  damp + dark. Not so sloppy as yesterday. Bed of road
  excellent. Rode 52 mi. Total 2150. Slept in room
  with hired man. Had a good bed. Max fooled with
  his back tire till 9:30 A.M. when we left the
d4_p05 ( 03L ) 
  miller's. Had breakfast of bread and coffee
  before leaving. Rode thru Lichtenau, Baden-
  Baden, Rastatt to outskirts of Carlsruhe.
  Got in Baden about 1 P.M. Visited Drinking 
  Hall, where mineral water is drunk; conversation 
  Hall; New castle built in 15th century where
  grand Duke spends his summers; several
  bathhouses; the ruins of the old castle
  upon the mountain in the Black Forest.
  We left our wheels in the city and walked
  up to the ruins. It is a good hours walk
  up there and back. Baden-Baden is one of
  the most fashionable watering places in
  Europe. We left there about 3 P.M. We stopt
  in a dorf about 6 miles from Carlsruhe at
  5 and Max spent nearly an hour trying
  to find lodging, but was unable to get a place.
  We rode back to main road, then to the out-
  skirts of Carlsruhe where we are spending
  night in a Gasthaus. I was told by the
  Miller with whom I spent last night the
  following in regard to yield and price of the
  products of this vicinity: wheat 25-
d4_p06 ( 03R ) 
  35 double centnars per hectare, price 22 marks
  Rye yeild 20-30, price 19 marks; price of oats
  18 marks; price of corn 17 marks; price
  of sugar beets 1 mark a centnar. Rode
  thru level country today. Wages here for
  farm hands is from 4-5000 marks
  yearly with board and washing. I ran
  into a rooster today an it thru me
  from my wheel. I landed on my feet,
  however. A few minutes later I ran 
  over another chicken and nearly killed
  it. Chickens seem to be my special-
  ty today.
      Tuesday. Oct. 27-1908.
  Weather foggy + cold in A.M. rather nice
  in P.M. Roads good. Rode 42. Total 2192.
  Left Gasthaus at 8 A.M. after breakfast-
  ing on coffee + bread. Supper last night
  sausage, potatoes bread, 1/2 liter milk,
  1/2 liter coffee, cost me only 65 pfennigs.
  1/2 liter coffee + 1/2 liter milk this A.M.
  cost me 30 pfennigs. Max got his
  breakfast from priest's house. Our
  bed cost us 25 pfennigs. Good bed.
d4_p07 (04L )
  Staid in Carlsruhe till 9:30 A.M. Visited the
  market place on which is a pyramid in com-
  memoration of Karl Wilhelm, founder of
  Carlsruhe; schloss of the prince of Baden;
  park in front of schloss. Rode from Carls-
  ruhe to Phillipsburg where we had a 
  good dinner with (pfarrer, catholic)
  fine fellow, "Haven't much but like to help a
  traveler". Got Rhine at Rheinhausen
  where we crost river on a ferry which
  was propelled by the current. Paid 6
  pfennigs for myself + 4 for wheel.
  Got in Spaires about 2 P.M. Visited
  memorial church built in commem-
  oration of protest of edict of Speyer
  1529. Statue of Martin Luther in front
  vestibule. Following written on floor
  in front of statue: "Hier stehe ich, 
  ich kann nicht anders
  Gott helfe mir, Amen." I wonder
  if Martin meant it. After visiting
  church we visited the deacon of the
  church a fine old man, Theodor Hoff-
d4_p08 ( 04R )
  mann. His daughter served us with a
  fine dinner, soup, sausage, some kind of
  bread dressing, milk fine, coffee, fruit,
  preserves, wine. I drank no wine.
  This makes 2nd dinner today 1st one
  at 11 and 2nd one at 3. Sufficient time
  and bicycle riding gave us a hardy appet-
  ite for 2nd dinner, however. Had good
  cigar after dinner. Left deacon's at
  3:30. Visited Romanesque Cathedral
  founded in 1030. St Bernard preached
  crusade in this church in 1146. Fine
  church. Saw tombs of about 9 empor-
  ers and 3 empresses in this church,
  Henry II, III, IV, + V. Adolf
  Emperor of the Romans, Rudolf
  Beatrice, Hilda, and others. We
  went thru one of the old gates of the
  city. Left Spires at 4 P.M. Stopt
  for night with farmer in village of
  Blankstadt. Brought up to Rathaus
  before Burgenmeister by a police man,
  who happened along when we were
d4_p09 ( 05L )
  asking for a place to spend the night. Sent
  back to the farmer's. From there we
  we to a Gasthaus. On leaving
  Spires this P.M. we rode along the Rhine
  for over an hour on a high road which
  serves as a levee for the river during
  highwater periods. Going out of Spires
  we crost river on a boat bridge. Toll
  for myself and wheel, 6 pfennigs.
  First bridge of this kind I ever crost.
  Rode thru Carlsruhe, Eggenstein, Graben,
  Philippsburg, Rheinhausen, Spires, Ketsch, 
  Schwetzingen, Blank-
  stadt. 
      Wednesday. Oct. 28-1908.
  Weather damp + foggy A.M. fine P.M. Roads
  good. Rode 20. Total 2212. Beds cost us
  30 pfennigs each last night. I went out last
  night, bought, bead + cheese, + found milk depot
  where I got a liter for 18 pfennigs. This A.M.
  I left Gasthaus, bought bread + cheese. Frau in
  store, Mrs Wilhelm Gund, asked me if I was a
  traveler and if I wouldn't drink a cup of coffee.
  I thanked her and accepted the coffee and bun.
d4_p10 ( 05R )
  Went back to Milk depot, bought 1 liter hot milk +
  1 cup black coffee for 18 pfennigs. Had good breakfast.
  Left Blankstadt at 8 A.M. Got in Heidelberg
  in 30 minutes. Left wheels in Gasthaus Garten.
  Visited churches, university, University
  Library where we saw some of the
  most interesting and valuable old papers +
  books in existence: A contract to which
  Cleopatra was a party; Oldest hand printed
  book in existence (9th century); A trans-
  lation of the French epic writer Roland,
  "Rolandslied" (12th century); Grosse
  Heidelberg Liedhandschrift ( one of
  the most valuable books in existence);
  and many other valuable books and
  manuscripts. Went up on moun-
  tain side and visited the ruins of the
  old castle. In these ruins we saw the largest
  cask in existence (220,000, liters.) was
  filled with wine two or three times.
  The ruins of this castle are supposed to
  be the most beautiful in Germany.
  From Terrace we got excellent view
d4_p11 ( 06L )
  of city. Had it not been for little haze our
  view would have been still better. Left Heidel-
  berg about noon. Stopt for dinner in Wieblingen,
  Heinrich Müller, evangel. Pfarrer
  Pleasant pastor's wife, daughter, + two little
  sons. Got in Mannheim between 3 + 4.
  Got our mail at Post Office. Found the
  Benders
  relation of Max's. Two girls, son, mother,
  nice people, rather poor. Had supper of
  bread and sausage. Mother brought two
  glasses of beer for us from Wirtschaft below.
  Mother keeps watercloset in a park. Took
  a walk with Max and one of these girls
  this evening. Wrote a letter for Press-Reporter.
  Sat up til 1 A.M. writing.
      Thursday. Oct. 29-1908. Weather
  fine. Rode none. Total 2212. Breakfasted on
  buns + coffee. Got baggage at American
  Consul's office. Max got money there.
  Visited Friedrichsplatz, the most beautiful
  square in Mannheim. Walked around
  the city a while this A.M.
d4_p12 ( 06R )
  Had dinner here with Max's relatives: Fried
  chops, potatoes, bread, wine, coffee, and buns.
  Neighbor woman brought in some German
  cake + some fruit, Took another walk
  this P.M. with Max and one of Bender
  girls. Visited the harbor: schloss: walked
  over new bridge across Neckar; back
  over another bridge. Got here at house at 4 P.M.
  I went over to the American consul's again
  to look up a passage in one of Webster's orations
  He and I got to talking about America
  and the Northwest. I spent nearly two
  hours with him. He was once consul
  in Winnipeg. Advised me to study
  law there. Name is Mr. Shank. Returned
  to Bender's had supper of potatoes sausage
  tea, salad, bread. Visited here all evening.
  Wrote two letters, one home, one to MO.
  Went to bed at 1 A.M.
    So far up Rhine valley the dorfs +
  homes are much cleaner than those
  in other parts of Germany. In
  Karlsruhe I saw the 1st wide gage
d4_p13 ( 07L )
  street car track I have seen since leav-
  ing Vienna. Mannheim is a very
  modern city, regularly laid out. Most
  important port on Rhine. Chiefly a
  commercial city. Other industries are
  milling, and color factory, which is
  one of the greatest in the world.
    In many cities in southern Ger-
  many we saw women street
  cleaners. I remember them in Munich,
  particularly. They looked very odd to
  me. We saw Luther's bible in the Heidlberg
  University Library.
      Oct 30-1908. Friday.
  Weather foggy A.M. Roads fine. Rode 48
  Total 2260. Left Mannheim about 8:30.
  Rode thru Frankenthal to Worms. Got
  there about 10:30 and staid till noon.
  Visited Cathedral (Romanesque, built 1110)
  Saw Heil'sche Haus, which stands on
  site where stood the palace in which
  Luther defended his doctrines before
d4_p14 ( 07R )
  Charles V. and the Diet of Worms (1521)
  Saw Luther's Monument which consists
  of statue of Luther and statues of 6 Reform-
  ers + 2 Protestant princes, and three Ger-
  man cities. Beginning on left hand
  corner of outside square and gong around
  from left to right we have: Philipp von
  Hessen, Augsburg, Melanchthon,
  Speyer, Reuchlin, Madgburg, +
  Freidrich von Saxon. Going around
  same way on inside square we have: Sav-
  anarola, Petrus Waldus, Johnn Wicliffe,
  Johann Hus. Luther is in the center.
  Coffee and bread with Ad. Ohm ( pfarrer )
  Worms, Liebfrauen Kirche. Left Worms
  about 1 and rode to Mayence. Max's
  rear tire exploded again today on way
  to Mayence. We rode right beside the Rhine
  for a while after leaving Worms. Passed
  vineyard after vineyard on hillsides today.
  Struck river again about 20 kilometers
  from Mayence. Got in Mayence about
d4_p15 ( 08 L )
  5 P.M. Visited Max's relation, sister in
  hospital. Had lunch there of bread, butter,
  cheese, and bottle of beer a piece. Couldn't
  stay there all night; came here to a Catholic
  Gesellenverein. Bought a supper here, salade
  potatoe, pancake, bread, hot milk, 35
  pfennigs. This is a very clean and
  cheap place to lodge. Passed paper factory
  just out of Worms this P.M. Baled straw in
  piles that resemble barns. Saw 40 or 50 such
  piles. 
      Saturday. Oct. 31-1908. Weather dark
  and cool. Roads good. Rode 25. Total 2285. Coffee
  and buns at Gesellenverein 12 pfennig's. Max
  spent most of his A.M. fixing wheel while I
  wrote. In addition to my Gesellenverein coffee
  I went out to a good restaurant, got an cup of
  coffee and an omelette. First American break-
  fast I have had for some time. Max returned
  from repair shop at 11. We then visited the
  Cathedral ( built in 10th century ) red sand
  stone, resembles cathedral in Worms.
  Visited Gutenberg's house. It is a Gasthaus
d4_p16 ( 08 R )
  at present. We were in the cellar where Gutenberg
  work. There is a tunnel from this cellar to the Schöffer
  hof. Schöffer was the man with whom Gut-
  enberg worked. Had dinner with Lutheran
  minister. Fine man. Ate with him and his
  wife. Name: Dekan Lic. Theol Jacob, Mayenec.
  Had good dinner, soup, meat, potatoes, bread,
  + mineral water. Max took beer. Returned to
  Gesellenverein, got wheels and started for
  Bingen at 3 P.M. Got here about 5:30.
  Spending night in another Gesellenverein.
  Our beds cost us 20 a piece last night.
  Good beds: clean room. Bingen is a 
  little city of 9,000 about, situated on Rhine.
  Walked around town this evening. Max
  got tape for his tire. We both got some cards.
      Sunday. Nov. 1-1908. Weather foggy +
  damp, cool. Roads fine. Rode 27. Total 2287,
  Bingen, Rüdesheim, Bingen, Niederheimbach,
  Bacharach, Oberwesel, St. Goar, Boppard.
  Had a good bed last night for 1 mark. This price
  included my breakfast. Max slept in room
  with 2 other fellows. Paid .50 mark. We
d4_p17 ( 09 L )
  went to 7:30 mass. Max went to communion.
  Returned to Gesellenverein, breakfasted, took wheels
  and went down to the Rhine. Saw mouse tower
  in middle of stream ( Archbishop Hatto of Mayence
  eaten alive by mice in this tower, because he had
  famine stricken peasants burned to death, com-
  paring them to corn-destroying mice). On
  east bank of Rhine, opposite tower stands Ehrenfels
  ruins ( an old tower built in 1210). We crost river
  to Rüdesheim by ferry (fare 20 pfennigs). Thence
  we walked up the hill thru vineyards (30 min)
  to the National monument. Thence back to
  Rüdesheim. Saw old Roman fortress in
  Rüdesheim. Patched out dinner in Rüdesheim.
  Returned to Bingen about 2 P.M. Then continued
  down to the Rhine on west bank. Road runs right
  beside stream,- an excellent highway; hardly
  any effort at all riding down stream. Shortly
  after leaving Bingen we passed Rheinstein
  ruins ( about 1279 W bank). Left wheels at
  foot of promentory, and climbed up to see the
  ruins. Next came Falkenburg or Reichenstein
  also on W. bank. Then Sooneck castle.
d4_p18 ( 09 R )
  Here Max ran into an iron post along road; took
  a dive into the air and bent his frame badly. Sonneck
  castle also on W. bank. Next came Heimburg castle,
  just above little village of Niederheimbach, W. bank
  Nearly opposite on East Bank is Lorch and
  near by on same side of river is Nollinger
  castle just above the Devil's ladder cliff. Next on
  W. bank came Fürstenberg, another ruin
  which like Falkenburg was was once a robber's
  nest. Then came the little city of Bacharach.
  High above this city is Stahleck castle. In
  the city are the ruins of St. Werner's church.
  Near by stands St. Peter's. The old town of Bachar-
  ach is still surrounded by it's old walls. We
  walked along on top of the riverfront wall,
  passing thru many old towers. This
  was a very beautiful little town. Not far
  down the river below Bacharach stands
  Pfalz an old fortress in the middle of the
  Rhine (Lewis of Bavaria built this in 1200 and
  exacted tribute of the passing vessels). On
  E. bank near by is city of Caub and above
  this city stands castle of Gutenfels (1277).
d4_p19 ( 10 L )
  Next came city of Oberwesel on W. bank.
  Above city stands Schönburg castle, where the
  Marshal Schomberg was born. This city
  Oberwesel has old walls and many old
  towers. Church of our Lady is most beautiful
  church in the town. Farther down stream
  came Lurlei rock, a high point (433 ft.)
  River narrow, deep, + swift here. When
  opposite this rock we could see St. Goarshausen
  and the castle called the Cat, far above the
  city ( E. Bank). Nearly opposite on W.
  bank is St. Goar, thru which we rode. On 
  the heights above this city is Rheinfels (1245)
  said to be grandest ruin on the Rhine. A
  little further down river on E. bank stands
  a castle called the Mouse, or Thurnberg.
  It was now dark. However we rode on
  into Boppard and spent the night in
  a Catholic Gesellenverein. We passed two
  castles tonight between St. Goar and
  Boppard, whose outlines we could barely
  see. They were Sternberg + Leibenstein ruins.
  They are on E. bank, right near each other,
d4_p20 ( 10 R )
  opposite little village of Salzing. The legend of
  Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde is attached
  to these castles. Tonight for supper I had
  potatoes, bread and butter + coffee 2 cups; cost
  45 pfennigs.
      Monday. Nov 2-1908. Weather fine.
  First fine bright day since we left Geneva.
  Roads elegant. Rode 24. Total 2311. Break-
  fasted at Gesellinverein,- coffee, hot milk, bread,
  + cheese. Visited Boppard after breakfast. Left
  for Coblenz at 10. Passed Braubach on
  E. bank with Marksburg castle on prom-
  inence high above village. Not much
  farther down river we went thru old town
  of Rhense. Just beyond here we past the
  Königs-stuhl where the 4 Rhenich
  electors chose emporers and concluded
  treaties in open air. Next we rode thru
  Capellen. Above this little town is Stolzen-
  fels castle. On opposite side of river
  is Oberlahnstein with Lahneck castle
  above it on the hillside. I puncture my
  rear tire on a nail in Capellen. Took
d4_p21 ( 11 L )
  about 15 minutes to repair it. Rode into Coblenz
  about noon. Patched out dinner. Max spent
  from two till five P.M. repairing his wheel.
  We saw in Coblence, the Mosel bridge,
  monument of Kaiser Wilhelm at
  confluence of Mosel + Rhine, Palace, many
  churches, the bridges across Rhine, and
  Ehrenbreitstein fortress on E. bank
  below the ship-bridge. At five we left
  city, crossing ship-bridge. (4pf.) riding
  down E bank to Engers. Max's
  namesake here couldn't keep us
  tonight. We are staying in a
  Gasthaus. I had a good supper here
  tonight of two eggs, a bowl of potatoes,
  salade ( lettuce ) bread + coffee. It 
  cost me 40 pfennigs.
      Tuesday. Nov. 3-1908. Weather fine
  Roads fine. Rode 34. Total 2345. After
  breakfasting at the Gasthaus we rode to the
  ruin of Sayn Castle about 2 mi. from Engers
  We also went down to the river to see the
  old masonry, supposed to be the rem-
d4_p22 ( 11 R )
  nants of Julius Caesar's bridge across the Rhine.
  On returning from Sayn we rode on, down the E.
  bank, thru Neuwied. On opposite bank from
  Neuwied we saw the Weissenthurm, an
  old watch tower. Next we passed Andernach
  on the opposite side of river. We saw another watch
  tower there. We could also see the old church (1206).
  Further down river on the same side that we
  were on, we passed Hammerstein (10th cen.)
  Henry IV took refuge from his son in this
  old castle during 30 yrs. war. There is very
  little of this old castle left. Still further down
  stream not far above Linz we could see
  Rheineck on the opposite bank, and
  an old Romanesque castle on hill near
  by. Next came Arenfels castle on E.
  bank. This old caste has lately been restored
  an is occupied at present. We then rode into
  little town of Linz. Found Wilhelm Jura-
  scheck with whom we are staying. After
  dinner we took a ride back to Arenfels.
  We were up in the court of the castle. On
  returning to Linz, we rode around town a
d4_p23 ( 12 L )
  little; then returned to Jurascheck's had supper.
  Spent eve in writing and talking.
      Wednesday. Nov. 4-1908.
  Weather fine. Roads good. Rode 43. Total 2388.
  Left house about 9 A.M.; crossed river on ferry
  propelled by current; visited Remagen, were
  in two churches there, one of which is way up on
  the mountain side; thence we rode up other
  valley. Dinner pfarrer Winter, Heimers-
  hein am Ahr. Quizzed Max closely.
  After dinner we rode thru Neuenahr,
  Ahrweiler, Alternahr to Kreuzberg, then
  back same way. Saw old ruins at Alternahr.
  Wagon road goes thru tunnel at Alternahr. In
  Neuenahr and Ahrweiler there is a trolley
  omnibus line. I never saw one like it
  before. We visited "Apollinaris Brunnen"
  and saw the bottleing works just out of
  Neuenahr. Got a good view of Handskrone
  and the ruin on its top as we left
  Neuenahr this evening. Got back
  to Linz at 5:30. Ahr valley from
  Neuenahr to Kreunberg is very beautiful.
d4_p24 ( 12 R )
  The hills are covered with vineyards.
      Thursday. Nov. 5-1908. Weather foggy.
  Roads excellent. Rode 40. Total 2424. Left
  Max at W. Juraschecks this A.M. and started
  for Colohne. Crossed Rhine on Ferry. Rode
  thru Remagen, Oberwinter to Rolandseck.
  Saw castle on hill above Rolandseck, also
  Nonnenwerth island. Couldn't see 7
  mts. across Rhine on account of fog,
  nor could I see Drachenfels near Königs-
  winter. From Rolandseck I rode thru
  Mehlem and Godesberg to Bonn. Got
  in Bonn at 11 A.M. Left wheel at Gasthaus.
  Visited Münster church (bilt by Empress
  Helena) her statue in church. Walked up to
  Kreuzberg to see the holy staircase, but that
  part of Church was closed. Returned to Bonn.
  Had fine dinner for 1.20. Soup; chicken
  and potatoes; pork chop + potatoes
  + craut; bread; dessert. Paid 10pf.
  extra because I didn't buy any
  drink with dinner. Visited Univer-
  sity buildings after dinner.
d4_p25 ( 13 L )
  Saw Beethoven's birth place and left
  for Cologne at 1:45. Got here at
  4 P.M. Visited Mr. Dunlap. Amer-
  ican Consul. He recommended his
  Pension to me (20 Hermannstrasse).
  Left Consul's office + went to Paul
  Wollmanns for my mail. No one
  at home. Came here to 20 Hermann-
  strasse. Engaged room and put
  up for the night. Walked around
  town a little this eve. Saw the old
  Cathedral by moonlight.
      Friday. Nov. 6-1908. Weather fine.
  Went to Paul Wollmann's on Karolin-
  ger Ring to get my mail. While in
  house my wheel was stolen. We 
  notified detective bureau at once. Ret-
  urned to 20 Hermann Strasse and
  breakfasted. Then went to see Mr.
  Dunlap. He advised me to advertise 
  for the wheel. I did so. (1.20 M.)
  for one printing.
d4_p26 ( 13 R )
  Was asked to have lunch with the Consul.
  Staid with him till 2 P.M. Just before
  dinner we took a walk down on
  the Rhine. Had a very pleasant visit
  with the Consul and his wife. His little
  son Robert is also pleasant. Returned
  to 20 Hermann Strasse and spent
  P.M. in writing. Wrote F and home
  today from consul's office. Saw
  Cathedral again this P.M. and was
  in it. I can see it from the
  window of my room. After
  supper at 7:30, Paul Wollmann called
  on me. We visited till 10 then went out
  for a walk; stopt in Kölch Wirthschaft.
  Cheese-bread + beer; then went to a
  Vienna coffee house. Drank 3 cups of
  chocolate and talked till 1 P.M.
  The music in this coffee house was
  excellent. I enjoyed the evening very
  much. Returned to Pension and
  slept in late next morning.
      Sat. Nov. 7-1908. Weather
d4_p27 ( 14 L )
  fine. Breakfasted at 9 A.M. Max came
  around this A.M. unable to find me last 
  night. He staid at Gesellen-verein.
  We spent forenoon in visiting churches
  and other buildings: Minorites Church,
  containing tomb of Duns Scotus; St Gereon's
  Church containing the skulls of Theban
  Legion, set in wood above the chair stalls;
  St. Ursula's Church containing the relics
  of the saint and the virgins that were
  massacred; Great St. Martin's Church;
  Sta Maria-im-Capitol (1049); Roman
  Tower; Rathaus, where 1st Diet of Hanseatic
  League was held. Returned to Pension and 
  had dinner at one thirty. After dinner
  I went over to Mr. Dunlap's with my
  blanket and some books which I left
  with him. On my return, Wollmann,
  who had arrived during my absence, Max
  and I went to Cathedral. I visited the
  upper choirs and one of the spires while
  Max and Wollmann awaited me at
  church door. In this Cathedral are
d4_p28 ( 14 R )
  the bones of the Magi. This is said to be the
  grandest of gothic structures. It is 444 ft, long,
  201 broad, 145 high; the two massive
  towers in the front crownd by open
  towers are over 500 ft high. I was up
  about 400 ft this P.M. From the church
  we went to the gymnasium where Woll-
  mann teaches. It was not a very modern
  building. Max couldn't enter because of
  his bicycle clothes. Not much to be seen
  in gymnasium. German children who
  intend to pursue the higher branches go to
  Folk Schule from 6 to 10 and then to gym-
  nasium fro 10 to 19; then to university.
  Other children continue in Folk-Schule
  till they are 14 years old. We left Wal-
  mann at 5:30 and returned to my
  room at the pension. It was ridiculous
  to see us three today; Wollmann in a
  silk hat and over coat, carrying a cane;
  Max in his yellow suit, yarn mittens and
  pants pinned at the bottom; me with light
  summer suit, quite different from the
d4_p29 ( 15 L )
  German cuts. Max had supper with
  me at the pension to-night, our last meal
  together. After supper he went to his gesellen-verein
  I went as far as the station with him.
  Then we said good-by. I returned to my
  room and waited till train time. Left
  Cologne at 10:45 A.M. We had to get off train
  at boundary line to have baggage examined.
  I met a big Norwegian on the train, a director
  of a conservatory of music in Winnepeg;
  he had lived in America 20 years. Directed
  me to the hotel where he roomed. I arrived 
  in Paris about 8:45 at the Gare du Nord.
  Walked up Rue de Lafayette to the Grand Opera,
  Went to 11 Rue Scribe but found Amer. Ex. office
  closed. Then I left my baggage in a little restaur-
  aunt where I had breakfast and went to mass
  in Trinity Church. After that I looked up the
  Tunis hotel, Passage de Caroline, a little
  street near corner of Blvd de Batignolles and 
  Rue de Caroline. I found this a reasonable place.
  I got a good clean bed in a small room
  for 1.50. I slept most of P.M. as I got little rest
d4_p30 ( 15 R )
  on the train last night. Took a walk in evening.
  Returned to hotel and spent a pleasant hour in room
  of Mr. Erickson and thus finished Sun.
  Nov. 8-1908 very pleasantly. Weather
  was fine today.
      Monday Nov. 9-1908.
  Weather fine. Rose late and breakfast-
  ed at the hotel on chocolate and buns.
  Went down to office of Express 60. and
  got two letters from home. Returned
  to hotel and spent most of P.M. in
  writing. In evening I went down
  to the English Catholic church on Rue
  de Hoche and went to confession.
  Went down to my little restaurant;
  had supper; and returned to hotel.
  Wrote some more and went to bed.
      Tuesday Nov. 10-1908
  Weather fine. Went to 8 o' clock mass
  in English church. Served mass for
  a priest there. Went to communion.
  Breakfasted at little restaurant; went
  for my mail. Got letter from F. Gushurst,
d4_p31 ( 16 L )
  Dr. Delaunay. Returned to hotel and spent
  part of P.M. writing. Wrote home, F. and
  Gushurst. Sent letter to Press-Reporter. About
  3 P.M. I went over to Dr. Delaunay's
  brother's on 13 Rue Monte Christo; not
  at home; met his wife and father in-law.
  Had dinner with them; nice people.
  Left there and went to Fr. Jamet's on
  Rue d' Amennonville 22. a priest
  of Holy Cross. Met there the French
  priest from the St. Joe farm at N.D.
  Fr. Jamet told me to come around
  tomorrow and he would show
  me the town. Returned to hotel.
  I was in the Grand Hotel last 
  Sunday and wrote a few letters.
  Spent a few minutes with Mr. Erick-
  son this eve and then went over to Mr.
  Delaunay's. Had supper there. Didn't get home
  till after 11. Mr. Delaunay is a very pleas-
  ant little fellow. His wife, too is most agree-
  able. 
      Wed. Nov. 11-1908. Weather fine.
  most of day; a little misty toward    
d4_p32 ( 16 R )
  night. Breakfasted at my little Restaurant;
  then went to Father Jamet's. He helped me plan
  an itinerary and I started out alone.
  First I went to the "Arc de Triomphe"
  begun by Napoleon I, 1806 finished in
  reign of Louis Philipp, cost $2,000,000.
  a magnificent structure; thence down
  Champ-Elysees to
  the Petit et Grand Palais, on the Seine.
  These are art museums at present. I
  paid a franc to see the Petit Palais.
  The two paintings that I liked best in this
  museum were "Le Christ", Bonnat (Leon)
  and "Cendrillon" Joseph Bail. The
  Grand Palais was closed for noon
  hour and I did wait for it to open, Cross
  ed Pont Alexandre II, a beautiful
  bridge over the Seine to the Hotel des
  Invalides. In the church of the Inval
  ides, I visited the tomb of Napoleon I.
  I had a rather queer feeling upon enter-
  ing the dome under which the great
  emperor is buried. The light passing
d4_p33 ( 17 L )
  thru the colored windows gives everything a
  pale blue effect. The tomb of the emperor is
  magnificent. It is down in a kind of pit,
  around which is a marble rail. The sarcoph-
  agus is of a reddish-brown granite,
  I believe, it weighs 67 tons. Round it on
  the floor are written in the mosaic
  work the names of his most famous
  battles, among them I remember, Aus-
  terlitz, Pyramids, Iena, Rivoli, Moscow.
  The doors to his tomb are made from gun
  metal from canons of Austerlitz.
  Jerome Bonaparte + Joseph are also buried
  in this church. Around Napoleons tomb
  are many of his flags. Also in the
  nave of the church are still more of his
  battle flags. From here I walked around
  the military school, thence to St. Sulpice's
  church; thence to Luxembourg Palace;
  visited the museum. I liked particularly
  here "La Rêve" Detaille ( Edward). This
  is a scene of the battle field at night.
  I walked thru the gardens of the 
d4_p34 ( 17 R )
  Luxembourg palace ( this is the Senate
  at present) to the Pantheon. This is a
  magnificent structure. It
  is dedicated to the great men of France.
  Visited the cript of this building (75c)
  and saw tombe of Voltaire, Rousseau,
  and many other important men.
  I went thence to St. Etienne du Mont
  and saw tomb of St. Genevieve in 
  that church. This church is right near
  the Pantheon. Thence to La Sorbonne
  church near university and saw the
  tomb of Richelieu. From I
  walked down to the Seine, crossed
  over on the Isle de la Cite
  and visited Notre Dame cathedral.
  It was closed and I couldn't enter.
  Thence to the Palais de Justice; thence
  to the Louvre and then up Avenue
  de l'Opera and then to my hotel.
  In the Pantheon today I also saw
  the tombs of Hugo and Zolo, and 
  the vault where Mirabeau's corpse used to be
d4_p35 ( 18 L )
  buried. I went to a comic opera this
  evening with Mr. Erickson at
  the Trianon. The name of the piece
  was the Muskateers.
      Thursday. Nov. 12-1908. Weather
  dark + rainy, warm. I began at
  the Opera place this morning and
  walked to Place de Madeleine an
  exceptionally beautiful temple. Its
  style is Grecian; thence to Place
  de la Concorde, thru the Garden of
  Tuileries; thence to St. Roch ( there)
  was a funeral going on in this church
  and the music was beautiful; then
  back to the Louvre which is near the Garden of Tuileries. I passed the
  Palais Royal. Was in the Cour du
  Louvre and Place du Carrousel where
  stands another triumphal Arch. Spent
  most of P.M. in the Museum of the
  Louvre. It is the largest museum
  I was ever in. I was told it has
d4_p36 ( 18 R )
  21 miles of paintings. I saw the "Venus
  of Milo; Michael Angelo's "Fettered Slaves;"
  Leonardo da Vinci's "Mona Lisa"
  "The Holy Family" by Raphael; "Ador-
  ation of the Magi," by Rubens; "The
  Immaculate Conception" by Murillo;
  and many other master piece.
  I met a young American from
  South Africa in this museum. He
  has been touring Europe for his health.
  After leaving the museum we had some
  refreshments together. I then went to 
  Hotel de Ville; crossed the Seine, took
  another look at Notre Dame and then
  started for the Opera Place. Passed St.
  Eustace's church. Saw L'Opera
  Comique, Had tea with an English
  speaking Frenchman who had heard
  me ask where the Comic Opera was.
  After leaving this man I took Metro' for
  Mr. Delaunay's. Had supper at his
  home. Then we took a walk; saw
  Place de Republique, Port St. Martin,
d4_p37 ( 19 L )
  and Port St. Denis. He came clear to 
  my hotel with me. We passed
  many bright Terraces this evening
  and restaurants where
  music was being played. Paris
  is surely a gay city. I never saw
  anything like it.
      Friday. Nov. 13-1908. Weather 
  rainy + disagreeable. Got a letter
  from home at Express office. Went
  out to see Fr. Jamet. From there
  thru Bois de Boulogne to the Troc-
  adero; past Eiffel Tower' stopt in
  to see Napoleon's tomb as I
  passed Hôtel d' Invalides; thence
  to St. Clotide; thence past Notre
  Dame and Palace of Justice, thru
  Halles Central ( the big market ) to
  the Opera where I met Vicomte
  de Ferri from 81 Ave. St. Cloud, Versailles.
  with whom I went to supper; then 
  to a moving picture show, which
d4_p38 ( 19 R )
  was very good.
    Sat. Nov. 14-1908.
  Weather disagreeable. This is the
  day that I got $160's worth of
  experience. I met my South 
  African friend at Express office.
  Took a way. Picked up purse
  of an Irishman. Gave it to 
  him. Asked in for refresh-
  ments. Accepted. Got my
  checks cashed and gave them
  away. I had no Idea I
  knew so little until
  today. I hope to have 
  better sense in the future.
      Sun. Nov. 15-1908.
  Weather dark. Left Paris this
  A.M. at 8:25 after going to
  Mass in the Trinity Church.
  Got in Boulogne about
  noon. In Folkstone about 2
  and in London about 3:30
d4_p39 ( 20 L )
  I took the 10 o' clock train from 
  London to Shrewsbury. Had to
  change at Stafford. Got in Shrews-
  bury about three A.M.
      Mon. Nov. 16-1908
  Sat in
  station till daylight. Then I
  walked out to Meole Brace.
  Met a man on the way who
  told me Mr. Timmons has
  moved to a place near West-
  bury. Returned to Shrewsbury
  and took 8 o' clock train
  for Westbury. On arriv-
  in there I found that Mr.
  Timmons had moved to
  Buttington 7 mi. away. I
  walked to Buttington with 
  my baggage on my should-
  er. Mr. Timmons did not
  know me on my arrival
  here. I had to tell him who
  I was. He was both glad
  and surprised to see me.
d4_p40 ( 20 R )
  Spent the entire day around the 
  house. Mrs. Timmons is a pleas-
  ant woman. Minnie is also
  quite agreeable. I
  told Mr. Timmons what
  an Ass I had made
  of myself in Paris. He 
  could hardly believe it.
  Said he'd see that I got
  home all right. I arrived
  here with a shilling and
  two pence in my pocket.
  After buying my ticket in
  London last night I
  sat in the station and
  just thot of what a predica-
  ment I was in, over 4,000
  miles with only 2 shillings
  three pence in my pocket.
  Suppose I had been unable
  to find Mr. Timmons.
  It would have been up
d4_p41 ( 21 L )
  to me to go to work and earn
  my board while waiting
  for money from home. It
  cheered me up considerable to get
  such a warm reception here
  at Timmons's. We spent most
  of the evening visiting and talking
  about America. I went to bed
  rather early for I was exceed-
  ingly tired. I did't sleep a
  wink Saturday night, after my
  $160 day. Then last night,
  Sunday night, I was travel-
  ing all night, so tonight
  I am very tired.
      Tuesday. Nov. 17-1908.
  Weather dark + fair by spels.
  Spent most of the day about the house. In the P.M. Min-
  nie and I rode down to
  Welshpool. We visited the
  castle and grounds of
d4_p42 ( 21 R )
  the Earl of Powsie. He has a very
  pretty palace. There are hun-
  dreds of deer in the park.
  Welshpool is a typical old
  Welsh town. We got back 
  home for tea. I had ridden
  Mr Timmon's wheel to
  town.
    I am enjoying my stay
  here very much. It is such
  a cozy place. A big red
  brick house covered with
  vines on the front, fire-
  places in every room.
    Mr. Timmons rents
  this little place just to
  have something to do.
  He has 2 ponies, 3 cows,
  2 calves, a few pigs and
  chickens, just enough
  to keep him busy.
    I like the British Isles
d4_p43 ( 22 L )
  Next to America I'd rather live
  in England or I mean in
  the British Isles.
    Paris is a very lively city.
  I never saw more gayety than
  I did in that city. Then too
  I was there in the winter.
    The streets are broad and
  well paved but not clean.
    The horses are the poorest
  I have ever seen. Carriages
  are numerous. Steam 
  street cars are common.
  Electric cars that get their
  current from pots of iron
  in the ground are also com-
  mon. The Metropolitan 
  underground is an excell-
  ent way to get around.
    Fare is 15 centimes
  on street cars and Metropolitain.  
d4_p44 ( 22 R )
  Horse butcher shops are common
  The meat sell for from 14
  to 22 cents per pound.
      Wed. Nov. 18-1908.
  Weather dark. I rose late
  again this A.M. This is
  Frances Coontz's birthday-
  eighteen years old today, I
  believe. I should like to
  see her. I wrote Frances
  yesterday. I also wrote
  father. Spent this A.M.
  about the house. In P.M.
  Mr. Timmons and I
  visited the brick yard near
  by. The men get 4 1/2 d. per
  hour. From brick yard we went
  up and called on Mr. Hughes,
  a neighbor. It was a typical
  English house, red brick,
  brick floor, open grate, chimney
d4_p45 ( 23 L )
  place about 10 ft long and
  three ft. deep, stand in front
  of grate, crane over fire, rag
  mat before the chimney
  place. Returned home and
  went up on the hill with
  Mr. Timmons to set some
  rabbit wires. Had tea about
  6 P.M. Spent evening visiting.
  Mr. Jolly, a neighbor who works 
  in the brick yard, was in this
  evening. We had supper about
  9:30. I am enjoying myself
  in this home. Spend evenings
  before the open fire visiting, read-
  ing, working puzzles, and
  eating apples and nuts. I'll
  hate to leave this place.
      Thu. Nov.19-1908. Weather
  fair after the rain last night.
  Mr. Timmons and I went
  to Shrewsbury this A.M. Got £20
d4_p46 ( 23 R )
  for me at the bank and I bought a
  ticket for home. Clear thru to
  Chicago. S.S. Campania.
  £ 10 on water  and 3:2:6 from
  N.Y. to Chicago. Went to Mr.
  Timmon's sister's for dinner.
  Had rabbit. Pleasant woman.
  Pretty 16 yr. old daughters, Maude,
  Returned home in P.M. Had
  rabbit again when we got
  home, one that we caught
  in the wies last night.
      Frid. Nov. 20-1908.
  Weather rather dark. Spent
  most of day around the
  house. Mr. Timmons and
  I took a sow down to
  Mr, Turner's this A.M.
  This is the nearest approach
  to home I have struck since
  I left Momence. This
  is my last night here.
d4_p47 ( 24 L )
      Nov. 21-1908.
  Weather fair + cold. I
  left Mr. Timmons' about
  8 A.M. and got in Liverpool
  about 11:30 A.M. Changed
  trains twice, once at
  Whitchurch and again
  at Crewe.
  Upon arriving in Liverpool
  I bought some souvenir
  cards and seven sovenir
  spoons. Then I walked down to the stage and
  saw the Cymric sail.
  I saw Mr. Robt. Jones
  the boatswain and his
  son.
    I then returned to
  the center of the city;
  get my baggage and
  went down and
  boarded the Campania
d4_p48 ( 24 R )
  about 3 P.M. We sailed
  at five P.M.
      Nov. 22-1908.
  Weather rather rough in A.M.
  and very rough toward
  night. We sailed into
  Queenstown this morning
  after breakfast. I bought
  some handkerchiefs and
  a pipe of some Irish woman
  that board the ship with
  their goods as we lay in
  harbor. We passed the
  Cymric as we left
  Queenstown. Didn't
  get out of sight of land
  till way after dinner.
  Sea was very rough toward
  evening; nearly every
  one was driven into his
  bunk. I failed to take tea.
  Succeeded in getting up for
d4_p49 ( 25 L )
  supper but couldn't keep
  my supper after I ate it.
  We have about four meals
  a day on this boat; break-
  fast, dinner, tea + supper.
  I had only one bunk mate
  last night a Mr. Sinclair
  from Lord Rosebury's place
  in Scottland. This man
  is going over to be a judge
  at the fat stock show
  in Chicago. Tonight
  however there are two
  more men in with us,-
  two Irishmen who
  boarded the vessel at Queen-
  stown.
      Monday. Nov. 23-1908
  Weather raining. Sea rough.
  I didn't get out for a meal
  today. Had a little to eat
d4_p50 ( 25 R )
  in my bunk in the
  morning and again
  in the evening. The big
  Scotchman kept close
  to his bunk today too.
      Tuesday. Nov. 24-1908
  Weather rainy and
  continues rough. I 
  managed to get up
  for breakfast and
  tea but failed to eat
  any dinner. Was
  on deck very little
  today 
      Wednesday Nov. 25
        1908.
  Weather much better.
  Quite smooth toward
  night. I didn't ,miss
  a meal today. I apprec-
  iated them all, too.
d4_p51 ( 26 L )
  Spent the entire day 
  on deck.
    I visited most of
  the day with a couple
  of Oxford lads who
  are from North + South
  Carolina. They are quite
  congenial company
  for me, They are both
  Rhodes scholarship
  men.
      Thursday. Nov. 26-1908.
        Thanksgiving.
  Weather delightful. Spent
  a very pleasant Thanks-
  giving. We had an excellent
  turkey dinner today.
      Friday. Nov. 27-1908.
  Weather wet and disagree-    
d4_p52 ( 26 R )
  able in A.M. but fine in
  P.M. Felt fine and enjoy-
  ed the day.
      Sat. Nov. 28-1908.
  Weather fine. Landed in
  New York Harbor about
  10 A.M. Went to N.Y.C. depot.
  then back to Cunard office.
  Was going to change my
  immigrants ticket for
  a 1st class and pay
  difference but decided to
  use cheap ticket. Ate
  dinner in a restaurant
  down neary the Ellis
  Island ferry. After
  dinner I went over to
  the Island and
  exchanged my Cunard
  order for a ticket over the
  Lackawana and
  Nickle Plate. Returned
d4_p53 ( 27 L )
  to N. York city. Changed
  my English money. Got
  $4.82 for it. Went down
  to Brill Bros. and bought
  a $17.00 suit. Then I went
  to N.Y.C. depot for my 
  baggage. Returned to down
  town district; ate supper got
  a hair cut + shave + took a
  6:55 train from Hobokon.
      Nov. 29 - 1908.
  Weather rainy. Slept well
  last night. Changed
  trains at Buffalo this A.M.
  about 7. Got in Chicago
  about 9 P.M. Sunday night.
  Caught 9:25 train out of
  Englewood. Got home at 11 P.M.
    It seems mighty
  good to be home again.
d4_p54 ( 27 R )
  I enjoyed my trip very much
  in a way. Still it could
  have been much more pleas-
  ant. Many unpleasant 
  things occured that could 
  have easily been avoided
  by a little wisdom in
  the ways of the world. But
  all in all I feel well
  repaid for the money my
  trip cost me. However, I
  could get a great deal
  more out of the same
  amount of money if I
  had the trip to make over
  again. I regret many
  of the mistakes I made
  but I shant feel so bad
  if I only profit by them
  in the future. Experience
  is a dear teacher sometimes.
d4_p55 ( 28 L )
  back cover
d4_p56 ( 28 R )
  front cover

