d3_p01 
  Diary Of European Trip.
  Sep.23-Oct.22-1908
  Vienna---Basle.
  Varnum A. Parish.
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  Wed. Sept.23-1908. Weather fair + fine
  Rode 65 mi. Left Gasthaus at 7 A.M. after
  breakfast of rye bread and coffee. Slept in
  barn last night behind the cows. My proximity
  to their pastures was unpleasant. At 3 A.M. I
  was awakened by the farmer coming out to feed his 
  horses. For supper last night I had potatoes +
  water soup. Rode thru Horn, Maissau to Stockerau
  where I got a dinner from Fr. Josef Truprij.
  I didn't have enough money to last me till I got 
  to Vienna so I had to get my supper and lodging
  last night, and breakfast + dinner today for
  nothing. Today for dinner I had soup, bread
  coffee and I was offered a glass of wine. Rode 
  into Vienna about 2 P.M. Had some little
  difficulty finding the place where Jury was
  staying. Found after two hours searching near
  Maria von Siege Church. Jury was out. I waited
  around till he returned. Dr. Brill, Jury's friend
  whom we were to visit is out of town. I 
  am spending night in same apartment
  building with Jury,- a might poor place.
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  Bed cost me 4 hellers for the night. Jury finds
  fault because he has to pay Janito 8 cents to
  let him in house after 10 P.M. "Heavens!" he
  says, "I am paying 6 cents a night for
  my bed as it is.
    Thur. Sept. 24-1908. Weather fine.
  Rode none, but walked about 10 miles.
  Natural Hist. Museum, Capuchin Church,
  and Emperial Mausoleum, St. Stephen's Church,
  "Stock im Eisen (Iron Tree) Trinity Column,
  Emperial Palace, Town Hall, Votiv Church.
  Went down to repair shop for Jury's wheel about
  five and found it unfinished. Returned to
  our lodgings. Got supper near Church
  on Mariahilfer St. on our way back to our
  lodgings. Changed lodging places tonight.
  Left building where Jury is and came to
  Palm gasse No6, 3rd floor. I have a
  clean, well aired room for three nights for
  two Krones. I have found a milk depot
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  near my lodging where I get fresh milk morn-
  ing and night it costs me 26 hellers a liter.
  The national museums here in Vienna are two
  magnificent buildings. They are right along
  Mariahilfer St. One is devoted to natural
  history and the other to art. The buildings
  are identical in structure, at least, so far as
  external appearances in concerned. Between
  them is a square, in the middle of which is
  a statue of Maria Theresia. The Natural
  History Museums contains a most valuable
  collection of mineral, botanical, and zoolog-
  ical specimens. The old Capuchin Church
  is famous because of its mausoleum. We
  saw the tombs of Maria Theresa and her husband,
  Charles VI, her father: Maximillian of
  Mexico; Napoleon's
  son; his wife Mary Louis, and scores
  of others of noble blood. There were
  metal caskets on all sides of us.
  Many of them are hundreds of years old.
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  St. Stephen's Church is a remarkable old
  Cathedral built 1300-1500. It is Gothic in
  architecture. The choir, which is right in
  front of the altar is of carved wood
  which is very beautiful. The windows in
  this church, too, are beautiful. The steeple
  is 453 ft. "Stock im Eisen" is an old tree, in-
  to which each wandering apprentice of Vienna
  in days of old, use to drive an nail as a good
  omen when setting out on his travels. The
  nails are so numerous that the trunk is scarce-
  ly visible. The emperial palace is hardly so
  stately in external appearance as the one
  in Berlin, nor is it so nice inside. It has
  the appearance of several buildings joined together
  rather than that of a single building. I
  saw some beautiful specimens of Gobelin
  tapestry on the walls of the halls. The
  modern chambers had marble walls. We
  we all thru Maria Theresa'a appartments;
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  saw her bed chambers, in which her bed
  stand still remains. We saw also some
  remarkable old clocks that had been received by
  the rulers as presents. Some of the specimens of
  mosaic work in the palace are beautiful.
  The chandeliers were also very attractive.
  Still, after all, there was a thing about the entire
  palace that looked homelike, cheerful, or cozy.
  The town hall is a massive building, a 
  excellent piece of architecture covering
  a block. Near by it, is the Votiv Church,
  built in commemoration of the present
  emperors escape from assassination.
  The most remarkable thing about it is its
  stained glass windows. The architecture,
  too, is attractive there are two gothic
  steeples in the front.
      Friday. Sept. 25-1908. Weather fine.
  Rode 5 miles and walked about 10. Visited
  Art Museum, Saw University , Parliament
  building, Deutsches Volatheater,Holfburg
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  theater. The Art Museum contains a rare
  collection of masterpieces. I saw the
  Sculptor Antonio Canova's piece
  "Theseus vanishing the Centaur."
  We saw many of Corregio's and Sarto's
  and Rubens works, also one of 
  Rapheal's. Vienna contains many beautiful
  theaters, among these are the two we
  saw today. Jury got his wheel this
  evening about six. We had supper tonight
  at the same place we ate last night. I
  forgot to mention that we attended
  a church entertainment last night.
  Jury got tickets from some Brother he
  met here in Vienna.
    Saturday. Sept. 26-1908. Weather fine.
  Rode about 36 miles. Total 891 miles. Spent A.M. visiting
  Imperial university, riding about the 
  city and seeing Währing cemetery and St.
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  Charles Church, also Palace of Justice, and other
  noted buildings. The main building of
  the university is a splendid granite structure.
  It contains many marble stair cases.
  The university library contains 1,000,000
  volumes. I was never in so large a
  library. Reading room seats nearly
  400.  About 6000 students in university.
  In Währing cemetery I saw the
  graves of Beethoven and Schubert. They
  were very poorly cared for. Simple stones
  marked the mounds. We also visited
  the Prater this morning. This is Vienna's
  finest park. In P.M. saw Schönbrunn,
  the imperial summer home. The palace
  is rather simple. The garden is beautiful.
  The trees are trimmed box shaped,
  so that looking down the walls one
  sees what looks like a solid green
  wall.
d3_p09 
  We also visited St. Marx's cemetery where lies
  Mozart. This too was very simple. It is
  marked by a broken column and a slab on
  which is written only his name and the 
  dates 1756-1791. St Charles' Church
  which we saw this A.M. and P.M.
  also is very beautiful. It is Roman
  in structure. On each side of the 
  front entrance is a beautiful
  column of carved stone . From a 
  stand point of architecture Vienna
  excells anything I have seen. But
  its rough granite stone pavements
  don't compare with the good streets
  of Berlin. Nor has it so many
  beautiful parks as Berlin.
  Went to benediction this evening. I
  got my laundry this evening and suit 
  from the tailor this noon. I was surprised
  at my bill. The tailor charged me only
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  two krones (40 cents) to put a seat in
  my trousers, patch on sleeve, patch
  in lining, and press. In U.S.A. The 
  work would have cost me $1.50.
  I ate my supper in the milk woman's
  shop. She was a very nice woman. I
  bought some coffee yesterday and she
  cooked it for me this morning.
      Sunday. Sept 27-1908. Total 943
  Weather dark and cool, Rode 52 miles. 
  Went to seven o' clock mass at
  Maria von Siege's Church. Breakfasted
  in milk depot again. Shipped my bag-
  gage to Mannheim. Left Vienna at 10 A.M.
  Got bowl of soup and plums at a house
  along the way about 12. Rode on to Press-
  baum where we visited the Rekawinkel
  Sanitorium. Got a fine dinner from
  Dr. Weiss. The country we rode thru
  today was beautiful, -Rolling mostly.
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  Passed a Leichtenstein
  castle about 15 miles west of
  Vienna. Stopt for the night in
  Spielberg. The address of the people
  I bought milk from in Vienna
  is Josef Bauch
  Palmgasse 8, 15 Bez. The big-
  gest place that we passed today was
  St. Pölten. For supper tonight we
  had rye bread and most ( cider from
  apples and pears).
      Monday. Sept. 28-1908.
  Weather fair+windy. Rained last night.
  Rode 52 miles. Total 995 mi. Left
  Spielberg about 8 A.M. Slept in a barn
  last night. Had rye bread and coffee for break-
  fast. Spent most of last evening telling
  the people we staid with about America.
  Before Jury could get permission to stay
  all night with the farmers last night,
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  he had to go to the Burgemeister, deposit
  his citizenship papers, and get a check.
  This morning he returned the check and 
  got his papers. Stopt at seminary just
  beyond Spielberg and got a bowl of soup.
  Visited StiftMelk, an old cloister
  founded about 900. This cloister is on
  a high eminence in the city of Melk.
  The church at the cloister was well
  worth visiting ; frescoing beautiful.
  Like many of the old churches I have
  visited, it had carved wood pews.
  Two kings a buried right in front
  of the church. In older times this cloister
  was fortified. The old wall still remains.
  Had dinner in Gaathaus in Blindenmarkt.
  Franz Xav Gotsbaoker ( Pfauer ).
  Just after dinner passed thru Amstetten,
  thence to Strengberg. Stopt at
  Karl Blumauer,
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  Hausbesitzer in Strengberg. No I,
  and got some fresh pressed most.
  The apples were put into a cicle shaped
  trough in which rolled a heavy
  stone wheel pulled by a horse. The
  old German took considerable interest in us
  when he found out we were Americans. He
  gave us all the cider we wanted to drink, and
  made us promise to send him cards from
  America. We rode from Strengberg, thru Enns,
  a city of a few thousand, to a little dorf
  named Asten. For the last two days we
  have ridden along the valley of Danube.
  The land is rolling and pretty. Passed
  many fields of clover in which I saw
  posts sticking up every few rods
  apart. I found that the farmers cock
  their hay around these posts. Passed
  much nice fruit, apples and pears
d3_p14 
  along roadside these last few days.
  The men in this country nearly all
  have a little stud in the lobe of their
  right ear. Many of the men wear
  feathers in their hat. Single
  horses are hitched on one side of
  a pole instead of being driven in
  thills. This seems to be the custom-
  ary way of driving single horses
  in both Germany and Austria. The
  people and homes in Austria are
  much cleaner, I believe, than in
  Silesia. One building is used for both
  barn and house in most of all the
  places we have spent the night.
      Tuesday. Sept.29-1908. Weather
  cool + foggy till 9 A.M. Fine rest of day.
  Roads excellent. No wind. Rode 64
  miles, total 1059 mi. Had two good beds
  to sleep in last night. Name of people
d3_p15 
  with whom we staid was Langedea
  Frau Sabia Langedea, Asten. Post Enns.
  We had rye bread and coffee for 
  supper last night and for breakfast
  this morning. Left Asten 8:15. Rode
  to Linz in 45 minutes. Staid there
  till 11 A.M. It is a beautiful little
  city on the Danube. Rode on thru Wels,
  and Lambach to Gmunden. I bought
  a liter of milk in Wels for 18 hellers.
  For dinner today we had some rye bread
  and fat meat that Jury got in Linz,
  a dumpling that we got at a priest's
  house along the road and another 
  piece of rye bread and pork and some grapes that Jury
  got just before we arrived in Wels.
  From Lambach to Gmunden we rode along
  the valley of a little river which was very
  beautiful. There is a little waterfall
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  about half way between the two towns. At
  Gmunden, there is a beautiful little lake
  and overlooking it is a stony mountain
  about 6000 feet high, called Traun
  Stein. The lake is named 
  Traunsee. About five minutes beyond Gmund
  we stopt for the night. For miles and
  miles today there were giant poplars
  along the roadside. We also passed 
  thru many pine forests. Spent night
  with Andreas Muhlbacher, Traun-
  Kirchen, O. Austria. I ran into
  a little Austrian this P.M. and sent him
  a sprawling. Had rye bread and coffee
  for supper.
      Wed. Sept. 30-1908. Weather fine
  Rode 51 miles. Total 1110 mi. Slept in
  hay mow last night. Had rye bread + coffee
  for breakfast. Visited toy shop or rather
  factory with Andreas Muhlbacher.
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  They made not only toys but all kinds of
  Kitchen Utencils, barrel faucets, etc. Nice
  family, clean house. Left about 7:30.
  Rode along the beautiful little lake,
  Traunsee, to Ebensee, a little town;
  then to Ischl where we staid from
  about 9 A.M. til 1:30. Went up to
  the salt mines in the mountains.
  Visited the baths. Had dinner,
  a fine dinner too, with Franz
  Weinmagr, pfarrer. Rode thru 
  St. Gilgen to within a few miles
  of Salzburg, where we spent the
  night with a farmer. The country
  we have ridden thru these last two
  days is very beautiful- right along
  the shore of a chain of beautiful
  little lakes, with high rugged
  mountains on each side of
  us. The mountains are
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  much higher and more rugged than
  any we have seen yet. The leaves
  on the trees are changing their color
  and the dark green of the pines
  mingled with the variagated
  hues of the other trees forms
  a rich mantle for the rugged
  mountains. We have been
  having all the fruit we could
  eat for the last 4 days. Everything
  in this country points to cheapness
  of labor,- big wooden pumps, hand-
  made, toothpicks + clothes
  pins whittled out by hand,
  eau-troughs made out of hollowed
  logs etc. The grace before and
  after meal said by this family
  with whom we are staying
d3_p19 
  takes about five minutes. The
  whole family eats out of a com-
  mon dish. First they had
  kraut, then soup
  made from sour milk and
  rye bread; then potatoes. We
  had only the soup for our 
  supper.
      Thu. Oct. 1-1908. Weather
  fine. Rode 43 miles. Total 1153.    
  Slept in barn last night; had same
  kind of soup for breakfast. Left house
  about 7:30. Got in Salzburg about
  8. Spent forenoon there; visited
  churches among which was cathed-
  ral and a little old church built
  in 1491. Visited St. Peter's Keller;
  House of Mozart's birth; Hohensalzburg
  an old castle on a high eminance
  overlooking the city ( this castle
d3_p20 
  was built in 1077); Parcelus's
  house. Left city about noon.
  Crossed boundary into
  Germany about one. We have
  been riding thru Bavaria all
  this P.M. Stopt and got a lunch
  about 4. Rode 14 miles in one
  hour this P.M. Passed field after
  field of clover being cured on poles
  driven in the ground. Country
  not nearly so rough today as
  yesterday. Bought cap for 2 krones
  in Salzburg and discarded old hat.
      Friday. Oct. 2-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 45. Total 1198.    
  Spent night in gasthaus in Obing.
  Had supper with priests mother Elizabeth Reischl. Fine
  meal. Breakfasted there again this
  A.M. Left Obing about 8 A.M.
  Rode thru Wasserburg. Stopt there
d3_p21 
  1 hour to fix puncture. Ran tack in
  front tire yesterday and didn't discover
  it til today. Patched out a dinner
  along the road. Got to outskirts
  of Munich about 4:30. We
  are spending the night with a
  farmer by name, M. Brandner,
  Bürgermeister, Berg am Laim.
  The country we rode thru today
  was level. Roads fine. My
  cyclometer broke today.
      Saturday. Oct. 3-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 20 miles. Total 1218.
  Had a fine bed last night. Bread
  + milk for supper in milk depot
  near by. Coffee and bread for break-
  fast this A.M. here at the house where
  we spent the night. Spent most
  of last evening visiting the 
  old Bürgermeister. We left the house
d3_p22 
  this A.M. about 8. Visited
  Maximilian strasse: many churches-
  beautiful ones-; King's palace; Hofgart-
  en; Hof-Theater; Gate of Victory; Hall
  of Generals; Theatine church, contain-
  ing tombs of nobles, Ludwig church, with
  Cornelius's "Last Judgement" and
  other frescoes; St. Michael's church;
  the Obelisk of captured gun-metal;
  New Pinakothek, containing many
  modern paintings; Maximilianeum
  containing many valuable paint-
  ings also; National Museum
  containing nearly everything-
  implements of war, costumes
  of the country, etc; German mus-
  eum, containing products of the
  various industries of Bavaria,
  many scientific instruments.
  Returned to the Bürgermeister's to spend
d3_p23 
  the night. Had supper again at
  milk depot. Wrote Frances a letter.
  Spent most of evening visiting the
  big old Bürgermeister with curly hair,
  his pleasant faced Frau, his two daught-
  ers, and his three sons. We all
  sat around the kitchen table which
  was covered with beer mugs and surrounded by men smoking
  long stemed pipes. The seen was
  "genuinely" German. Sat up till 12.
      Sun. Oct. 4-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 20 miles; total 1238.
  Went to seven o'clock mass in church
  near by. Max went to communion.
  Coffee + buns for breakfast. Spent
  forenoon in Munich. Saw Old Pina-
  kothek containing many master-
  pieces of Raphael, Correggio, Titan,
  Holbein, Dürer, and Rubens.
d3_p24 
  I remember in particular Die Beweinung
  Christi by Ant. Van Dyck; Madonna
  by Corregio; Der Bethlehemitiche
  Kindermord; Die Madonna della
  Tenda by Raphael; Maria mit
  dem Christ Kind by Leon. da Vinci;
  Die h. Familie by Andr. del Sarto.
  We visited St. Boniface's a
  basilica containing many
  beautiful columns of gray
  Tyrolese marble, and frescoes
  by Hess. Returned to the Bürger-
  meister's for dinner. Had fine meal-
  chicken soup, stuffed meat, salad,
  apple sauce, sweet bread with
  marmalade, tea with cognac.
  Went to the October feast this P.M.
  with one of the Brander boys. It
  resembled our Coney Island. Prices
  cheap. Nearly everything cost 10 pfennigs.
d3_p25 
  Saw also the New and Old Rathaus;
  Marien platz and many other important
  places + streets; Statue of Bavaria at
  the October feast. We walked clear
  across the city and back.
  We have seen Munich very thoroly.
  Returned to Bürgenmeisters for night.
  Had supper at milk depot. Spent eve 
  visiting Brandner family. We
  visited the Hof-brewery, one of the 
  greatest beer gardens in Germany.
  It seats about 4,000 people. There
  must have been two or three thous-
  and there this P.M.
      Monday. Oct. 5-1908.
  Weather fine. Roads fair. Strong wind
  against us. Rode 58 miles. Total 1296.
  Left Munich about 8 A.M. Rode thru
  Nymphenburg
  Bruck, Mering to Augsburg. 
d3_p26 
  Saw palace + porcelin factory
  in Nymphenburg. Pieced out
  dinner along road. Spent two
  hours in Augsburg. Saw cathe-
  dral built in 10th century ;
  other churches; Rathaus; buildings
  frescoed on outside. Jury's tire exploded today. It had 
  worn clear thru. We are
  spending night with the
  owner of a saw mill about
  eight miles out of Augsburg.
  Country we rode thru today
  was rather level. Looked
  much like country around
  home. Had my bread + milk
  supper before leaving Augsburg.
      Tuesday. Oct. 6-1908. Weather fine.
  wind with us. Roads fair. Rode 66.
  Total 1362 miles. Had coffee and bread
d3_p27 
  last night before going to bed. Slept on
  lounge. Max on floor. Name and address of
  people Otto Hartleitner Mühlbesitzer,
  Biburg bei Augsburg. Breakfasted at
  5:30 on coffee + white bread. Left house
  6:15. Very cold for first two hours this
  morning. Rode thru Burgan + Günzburg
  to Ulm. Hot soup in Burgan at 10 A.M.
  Got in Ulm 11:30. Dinner at Fn. Wie-
  land, Kaplan, New-Ulm. Had house-
  keeper make coffee for us. Visited cathedral
  in Ulm, said to be highest in world,
  built in 1377. Fee 20 pgennigs; It is
  a Luthern cathedral. The old Rathaus in
  Ulm is frescoed all over the outside.
  We bought sweathers in Ulm 5.50
  marks each. Left Ulm at 3:30
  P.M. Rode thru Laupheim and
  stopt at Franz Schlanser's Bara-
  bein ob Biberach. Rich farmer.
  Gasoline engine, cream separator.
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  Had some difficulty in finding
  lodging. Country today was 
  slightly rolling. Quite a little
  fruit by the way side.
      Wednesday. Oct. 7-1908
  Weather fair. Roads fair. Wind against us
  Rode 49 miles. Total 1411 miles.
  Slept in barn last night. Supper coffee
  + rye bread, small piece of smoked meat,
  glass liter of milk. Breakfasted on rye bread + coffee.
  Left house at 8 A.M. Stopt in Biberach to
  fix Jury's tire. Big market in Biberach, pigs
  on one street, cattle on another, produce on
  another. From Bierbach we went on thru
  Waldsee, Weingarten, Ravensburg, Fridrichs-
  hafen and stopt at Joseph Hierer's,
  Schlatt, Post Eriskirch, ob Zettnang.
  Poor farmer. 18 acres, 3 cows, drove two of 
  them. Patched out dinner on road
  today. Got to shore of Lake Constance
d3_p29 
  about 5 P.M. Bought milk + bread in 
  Fridrichshafen. Rode along shore of Lake 
  Constance for about one hour. Could see
  Alps on other side of Lake. Country we 
  rode thru today was gently rolling.
  Much turf is used for fuel between here
  and Vienna.
      Thursday, Oct. 8-1908. Weather
  fine. Roads good. Few grades. Rode 61 miles.
  Total 1472. Slept in wagon in shed last night.
  Had rye bread + coffee for breakfast. Left house
  at 8 A.M. Crossed boundary out of Wurtemberg
  into Bavaria this forenoon. About 11 A.M.
  just after passing Lindau we rode into
  Austria: Rode thru Bregenz, up Rhine
  crossing river at Au. Paid 4 hellers toll
  over bridge near Bregenz and also where
  we crossed the Rhine. Had good dinner
  in Au. Pleasant housekeeper. Very hospit-
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  able. Potatoes, sausage, soup, white bread, salad,
  Tuscany wine. Sophia Dürst, Au, ct. St. Gallen,
  Switzerland. Priest not home. This P.M.
  we rode thru Alsteten + Buchs stopping for
  the night with Johannes Grünenfelder.
  Vild bei Sargans, ct. St Gallen.
  Au was the first town we struck in 
  Switzerland. We rode thru the Alps this entire
  P.M. Many grapes raised along road. Other
  fruit plentiful also. Many cows and
  goats. Visited a St. Gall lace factory.
      Friday. Oct 9 -1908.
  Weather fine. Cold in morning; summer
  heat in middle of day. Roads good. Rode 41.
  Total 1513. Sargans, Ragaz, Sargans,
  Wallenstadt, Mühlehorn,  Ziegelbrücke,
  Cornbread and milk for supper last
  night, and also for breakfast this
  A.M. Slept in barn. Grünenfelder's
  house was very old and like most
  of these Swiss houses, the walls of the
d3_p31 
  rooms were pannelled wood work.
  Left house at 8 A.M. Visited an old castle
  at Sargans; watering place at Ragaz
  ( left our wheels in Ragaz and walked about
  3 miles up a beautiful valley to the hotel ).
  Had dinner in Flums ( pfarrer ). Rode along
  Wallensee all P.M. Had 1 1/2 hrs. climb up
  a mountain from Mühlehorn. Three
  mile coast down. Jury took a bad fall.
  Very pretty view from the mountain
  down on to Wallensee. Stopt for night
  with Brüder Rüdisüli at Eichen, Schänis
  ct. St. Gallen. This was another old house
  with shingle siding, panneled walls,
  enameled brick stove. It was typically
  Swiss. For supper tonight we had cheese,
  made from prest curds, coffee, potatoes, +
  white bread.
      Sat. Oct. 10-1908.
  Weather fine, like summer, but very cold early
  in morning. Roads fine. Rode 43. Total 1556
d3_p32 
  Rode thru Rapperswil, Meilen , Zurich . Slept
  in barn last night. Cheese, dried plumbs, white
  bread and coffee for breakfast, a good supply.
  Left house at 8 A.M. Got in Rapperswil
  about 9:30. Spent an hour or so there
  visiting old castle + cloister. Got good
  view of lake Zurich from castle tower.
  Had dinner in Meilen ( Pfarrer ) Rode
  along lake Zurich from one end to the 
  other. Got in Zurich about 1 P.M. Visited
  principal buildings. Spent an hour in
  Swiss national museum, which contains
  various costumes of the Swiss people and
  also much armor and weapons of war.
  Rode out of Zurich about 5 P.M. Spent the 
  night with 
  Frau Siefrig, Langnau, Switzerland.
  Much fruit ( grapes, apples + pear) raised along
  the lakes. Quite a little corn raised in this
  part of Switzerland. We passed many
d3_p33 
  herds of cows going to pasture these
  last two mornings. The cows here
  are all of one kind - very large, about
  the color of our Jersies. Saw many
  snow cap peaks today + yesterday.
      Sunday, Oct. 11-1908.
  Weather fine, warm; Roads good. Rode 50.
  Total 1606. Zug, Küssnacht, Lucerne.
  Coffee + bread for supper last night and also
  for breakfast this A.M. Slept in barn. Left
  house about 8. Went to 9 o' clock mass
  in the outskirts of Zug. Rode along
  lake Zug for its entire length. Saw the
  Rigi. Struck Lake Lucerne about 12.
  Lunch ( Pfarrer Cattani, Küssnacht )
  Got in Lucerne about one. Visited imort-
  and churches, and other buildings. Saw
  the Lion of Lucerne, carved on the
  face of a cliff, by Thorwalsen, in
  commemoration of 800 Swiss
d3_p34 
  soldiers, who died in defence of Tuileries, 1792.
  Saw; also, old Capell Bridge, built in 1303
  over river Reuss. Lucerne is almost a
  city of hotels- a very beautiful
  city. Left city about 4:30 P.M.
  and for nearly two hours we rode
  along the west shore of Lake Lucerne,
  a beautiful ride on an excellent
  road. Stopt for the night with
  Ignatz Britchgi, Koncurspräsident,
  Alpnachdorf, ct. Obvalden.
d3_p35 
      Monday, Oct. 12-1908. Weather fine.
  Roads good. Rode 44. Total 1650. Sarnen,
  Giswil, Lungern , Brünig, Brienz, Interlaken
  Supper last night + breakfast this A.M. white
  bread, coffee, + cheese. Slept in house good
  beds; nice people; daughter impediment in
  speech; typical swiss house, shingled
  sides, pannelled walls, low pitched
  roofs with projecting eves. Broke
  knife on cheese, paid 50 centimes. Left house
  at 9 A.M. Rode thru a beautiful valley and over
  beautiful mountains. Pushed wheels for half our
  after leaving Giswil, and again for half
  hour or more after leaving Lungern. We
  rode
  along Sarnener See and Lungerner See 
  this A.M. From Lungern we could see
  high snow capped peaks straight ahead
  of us. After our climb out of Lunern
  to the mountain top we coasted for five
  miles down to Brienz in a beautiful
  valley on the Brienz See. Looking back
  of us we could see snow capped
  peaks. Straight across valley were
  two waterfall - must have been 1000
  feet high. Visited Schnitzler Schule,
  of wood carving in Brienz. Wood carv-
  ing is an important industry in
  this part of Switzerland. Dinner in
d3_p36 
  Brienz. Hour's ride to Interlaken. Got nearly
  a dozen letters in Interlaken. Never enjoyed
  letters more. Hadn't heard from home for
  two months. From Brienz to Interlaken
  road follows shore of Brienz See.
  Beautiful ride. Left Interlaken at 4
  P.M. and started for Grindelwald.
  Stopt for night at Swiss cottage
  not far from Grindelwald. We
  could see the snow capped
  Junfrau from Interlaken this P.M.
      Tuesday. Oct. 13-1908. Weather
  fine. Rode 14. Total 1664. The name + address
  of the family with whom we spent the 
  night was Fritz Burgener, Alphornbläser Burglauenem, Grindelwald
  Had fine supper of bread, cheese, + hot
  milk. Breakfast, bread cheese + coffee.
  Liberal supply of everything. Nice bed
  in house. Fine family. Saw my
  first Alpine horn last night. It was
d3_p37 
  about 10 ft. long. made of wood. Left house
  this A.M. about 8 and road to Grindel-
  wald dorf. Left wheels and spent about
  two hours on foot visiting Grindelwald
  Glacier and the gorge thru which the
  stream from the glacier flows. This gorge
  must be atleast 6 or 8 hundred feet deep.
  It is well worth seeing. We were in a tunnel
  that is cut into the solid ice of the glacier.
  This is called the gallery of ice. We
  dined with the pfarrer in Grindelwald
  at noon. Had fine dinner. Man's name
  was Gottfried Strasser, Grindelwald.
  Returned to farm, where I had spent night,
  for my baggage. Rode to Lauterbrunnen,
  a dorf in a beautiful valley at the foot
  of Jungfrau. Jungfrau and all the
  peaks near by it are covered with
  snow. A cog railway runs from
  Lauterbrunnen to Jungfrau. An
d3_p38 
  electric road runs to Mürren. We
  got in Lauterbrunnen about 3:30. Left
  our wheels and climbed for nearly
  two hours up the mountain side to the
  dorf of Mürren. This village is 5,347 ft
  above sea level on the edge of a cliff
  which fronts one of the grandest
  Oberland ranges. Here we are spend-
  ing the night. Max is sleeping in
  a barn near by and I am staying
  with a farmer. Paying a franc
  for my bed. Had a good supper of coffee
  bread, cheese, and fried potatoes.
      Wednesday, Oct. 14-1908.
  Weather fine. Roads good. Rode 26. Total 1690.
  Breakfasted on coffee bread + cheese.
  Left Mürren at 8:30. Wrote Frances
  + Mother last night. Max and I walked
  down into the valley by another
d3_p39 
  pass this morning. We passed
  Schmadribach Fall. Walked further
  down the valley and visited the
  Trümmelbach fall, which is
  well worth seeing. From the road
  one cannot see it, since it is hidden
  in the gorge in has made. It is back
  in the precipice about 20ft, a very
  curious thing. From there we went
  still further down the valley and
  saw Staubbach. This fall drops 980 ft.
  in a single leap. At the bottom it is 
  all spray. On coming down from Mürren
  this A.M. we past the village of Grimmel-
  wald and arrived in upper end of Lauter-
  brunnenthal. We spent nearly all A.M.
  coming down mountain and
  visiting the falls as we walked down
  valley to Lauterbrunnen village. Got
d3_p40 
  our wheels and road on toward
  Interlaken. Stopt on way and had
  dinner with W. Marbach ( pfarrer) in
  Gsteig bei Interlaken. Gave him stamps
  off my letters. Had good dinner. Rode on
  into Interlaken. Sent lot of cards +
  mailed my letters. Left there about
  three. Rode thru Spiez and Wimmis
  and stopt at Erlenbach. Our
  entire ride was along the south
  side of Lake Thun from Interlaken
  to Spiez. We spent the night
  with W. Wallauer, ( pfarrer)
  in Erlenbach. Had a good supper,
  meat, macaroni, bread,
  butter, jamb, cheese, + coffee.
  His sister and 2 children were
  visiting him. Slept in barn.
  Met a laborer there who had spent
  6 years in Utica, N.Y. Spoke
d3_p41 
  good English. Had quite a visit
  with pastor and sister this evening.
  Very nice people. Very little hill climbing today.
      Thur. Oct. 15-1908.
  Weather fine. Road fair. Rode 52 mi.
  Total 1742.               Saanen
  Chateau d'Oeux, Aigle.
  Breakfasted with pastor on bread
  cheese and coffee. Left
  house at 8 A.M. Passed thru good
  grazing valleys this A.M. Pretty
  country as usual. Had
  to climb for about 1 1/2 hrs just
  before dinner and then we had
  a fine coast of 4 miles into
  Saanen, where we had dinner
  with Theodor Baeschlin (pfarrer).
  Fine dinner with hospitable
  family. Wife spoke fair English.
d3_p42 
  Little boy ( Hans ) said grace.
  Left Saanen about 1:30 P.M. Got
  in Chateau d'Oeux about 2:30.
  Wrote two cards to Cologne to have
  my mail forwarded to Bern. In
  Chateau d'Oeux, French is spoken
  and from there on West. Left Chat-
  eau d'Oeux about 3 and climbed
  till 5:15. Walked nearly all way
  with exception of about 20 min.
  In one place the road was cut
  right into the side of a precipice
  for a mile or two. It
  was here that we were able to
  ride. At 5:15 we were in a high
  valley. The houses were very
  poor things. Wooden chimneys
  or none at all. This valley
  was a couple miles long.
  From this elevated valley
d3_p43 
  we coasted for 11 miles to
  Aigle where we spent the
  night with P. Von Siebenthal
  a bee-man. We are going
  to sleep in his carpenter shop.
  I left 
  max and walked down 
  mountain side into center
  of town and bought some
  bread + milk + cheese. Returned
  and on my way back got
  lost in vineyard. Upon my
  arrival at house had another
  supper of coffee bread,
  cheese, and honey. Thru
  St. Gall + Berne cantons we
  have been seen hour stones
  along way. Nearly all horse
  here in Switzerland have 
  bells on them. We met a
d3_p44 
  little boy about 10 yrs. old today
  going up mountain
  side with a basket containing
  about 40 lbs of pears. Max
  carried the basket for him for
  about 15 minutes then the
  little fellow left us. It
  is remarkable what children
  here carry on their backs.
  On our way down from Mürren
  yesterday we met a little fellow
  who couldn't have been more
  than eight; he had a big wooden
  can filled with milk,
  I believe, on his back. He said "Gruse"
  very cheerfully, nevertheless.
      Friday. Oct. 16-1908. Weather
  fine. Roads fair. Rode 36. Total 1778
d3_p45 
  Villeneuve, Montreux, Clarens, Vevay,
  Ouchy, Lausanne. Breakfasted on coffee
  bread, cheese,+ honey. Left Bee-man's house
  about 8:30. Stopt in Aigle for a little milk.
  reach Lake Geneva at 9:30 at Villeneuve.
  Got to Castle of Chillon, which lies between
  Villeneuve and Montreux at 10. Spent
  one hour in castle. Was in dungeon
  where Byron's Prisoner of Chillon was con-
  fined. Saw Byron's name carved on col-
  umn. This old castle is built on a
  rock that extends out from shore. We
  saw many of the old chambers of the
  castle which still contain the old furnit-
  ure. Many immense fire places are in
  this castle. Some of the dungeons are
  way below the water. They are very grue-
  some. Castle is being renovated at
  present. Admission fee 50 centimes.
  Got into Montreux about noon. Visited
d3_p46 
  Montreux Palace, a magnificent
  hotel. Had dinner with Carl Goedel 
  in Montreux. (pfarrer) had lived in
  Philidelphia 13 years. Wife, apparently, extreme-
  ely glad to see two Americans. Two
  cute little girls, Elizabet + Hildegard, 8+14
  both born in America. Bought milk
  in Vevay. Got to Lausanne about
  five. This is a very pretty city
  back from the lake about
  1 mile. Saw old Cathedral there
  in which Valvin spoke. Our
  entire course today since arriving
  at Villeneuve has been long
  the north shore of Lake Geneva.
  Nearly all the hills along this
  shore, so far, are covered with
  vineyard. Every 2 or 3 rds. there 
  is a stone wall, then a drop of about
  10 ft. Looking up the hillside one sees
d3_p47 
  a series of these walls with the patches
  of vineyards between them. I never saw
  so many good hotel in such a short
  distance as I have seen today. Nearly
  all the roads we have struck so far in
  Switzerland have been fairly good but
  pretty badly worn in places.
      Oct. 17-1908. Saturday.
  Weather fine. Road excellent. Rode 35
  Total 1813. Spent last night
  with Italian outside of Lausanne.
  Name was Laurent Brignolo, St.
  Sulpice. Kt. Vaud. Slept in barn.
  Supper, bread, cheese, nuts, black coffee.
  Fresh wine. Breakfast this A.M. bread
  + coffee. Clean chains. Left house at
  9. Rode thru Morges, Rolle, Nyon
  Coppet. Visited castle in which Bertha
  of Burgundy once lived, in Morges.
  It is now an arsenal and armory.
d3_p48 
  Saw house where La Harpe was born in
  Rolle. Saw Obelish on island near by,
  erected in his honor.
  Ate dinner at restaurant in Nyon.
  Saw an old castle in Nyon. Saw
  Necker Château in Coppet. Got in
  Geneva about 3:30 P.M. Max
  put up at the White Sheep, I
  stopt at the Bristol. Spent
  evening walking around
  town together. We visited the
  Beau Rivage, a beautiful
  hotel on Lake front. Walked
  out on pier near
  light house and got fine
  view of the city of Geneva
  when lighted up. Had hot choco-
  kate together in baker shop. Cashed
  check this P.M. here in Geneva.
  Got hair cut + shave. Wrote F.
d3_p49 
  Sun. Oct. 18-1908. Weather warm
  and fair. Rode 22 mi. Total 1835.
  Geneva, Ferney, Geneva, Coppet,
  Nyon. Went to 8 o' clock mass at
  the church of the Sacred Heart.
  Max went to communion. Ate
  breakfast at Bristol after mass.
  Met Max at Rath Museum. Not
  much in this museum. Visited prot-
  estant Cathedral (St. Peter's of the North; Cal-
  vin's home; Rousseau's birth place
  40 Grande Rue. Saw a Boucherie
  Chevaline today, ( place where horse 
  meat is sold). Calvin preach in
  St. Peter's of the North. Had fine
  dinner at Bristol. Went to Fol Mus-
  eum after dinner. Not much there.
  Was to have met Max at museum but 
  was late; he was gone out to
d3_p50 
  Pastor Hoffmanns in Varembe.
  From Museum, I went out to Fermey,
  visited Voltair's Chateau and church
  which in the same enclosure with
  Chateau. Church was built in 1761.
  On its front is inscribed "Deo erexit
  Voltaire. A monument or rather a
  statue of Voltaire stands in one of
  the squares of the little town
  of Ferney. I left my wheel in
  Switzerland so I would not
  have any trouble about the license.
  Ferney is about two miles across
  the line. I walked from the boundary
  line to Ferney and
  back. Stopt at Ariana Museum
  on way back from Ferney. Nice
  building. Couldn't enter; closed at
  4 P.M. Left Geneva at 5 P.M. +
  rode to farm between Nyon
d3_p51 
  and Rolle, where I found Jury. He
  left his luggage here yesterday. We
  are to spend the night here.
      Monday. Oct. 19-1908. Weather
  cool and cloudy. Rolle, Morges, Laus-
  anne, Echallens, Yverdon. Rode
  53 mi. Total 1888. Roads good.
  Slept in barn last night. Coffee + bread
  for breakfast. I stopt in Morges and bought
  a liter of milk, loaf of bread, + some cheese.
  Got in Lausanne about noon. Met
  the Italian Laurent Brignolo on our
  way into Lausanne. Were in University
  (fine building) and old Cathedral in
  Lausanne. Had soup in restaurant.
  Left Lausanne about 2 P.M. Got to
  Yverdon about 4 P.M. We were
  in the old school in that city; the
  building was once a chateau. Yverdon
d3_p52 
  is at the south end of lake Neuchâtel.
  From Yverdon we rode along the southeast 
  shore of this lake, about 12 miles to the
  village of Châblis, where we are
  spending the night with Bertin
  Philippe Kt. Friburg. There
  is a strip of gently rolling land along the
  north shore of lake Geneva from
  Lausanne to Geneva. This strip is
  about 10 miles wide. From Lausanne
  to Yverdon, gently rolling. Could
  see the Jura mts. across lake
  Neuchâtel today. I met two crazy
  people, one a woman who was talk-
  in to herself and laughing, the other
  a man. He was smoking a cigar
  and carrying a cane. He trotted along
  in the middle of the road. Every once
  in a while, especially when he would
d3_p53 
  met a vehicle, he would take a little
  bell out of his pocket and ring it.
  Had a big supper tonight, plenty of
  coffee, hot milk, bread, mashed potatoes,
  +fat meat. Nice hospitable family.
      Tuesday, Oct. 20-1908.
  Weather cold + dark. Rode 46. Total 1934.
  Had strong breeze against us yesterday
  + today. Roads good. Country hilly.
  Lots of walking till we got to Friburg.
  Had grade with us from Friburg to Berne.
  Slept in barn last night. Had fine breakfast
  of potatoes, bread, butter + jam, +coffee.
  Three sewing girls ate with us. First time
  in history of our trip that we weren't
  able to clean up everything on table;
  the amount of food on table last
  night and this A.M. was too
  much for us. Left house at 8 A.M.
d3_p54 
  Rode thru Payerne, Friburg and
  Berne. Are spending night just out
  side of Berne with ( a family 
  whose name I don't want to know.)
  Nothing much to be seen in Payerne:
  had dinner in Friburg. Visited
  the old Cathedral in Friburg whose
  organ is said to have best tone
  of any in the world; saw Rat-
  haus; lime tree near by, which
  was planted in the 15th century in
  commemoration of battle of
  Morat; suspension bridge 800
  ft. long and 164 ft above Sarine
  river. Crossed this bridge on our way
  out of city; got a fine view of city
  from opposite bank of river as
  we were leaving for Berne. This old
  city of Friburg has much of its
d3_p55 
  old wall and many of its towers
  still remaining. Left city about 
  1 P.M. Arrived in Berne about
  2:30. Visited old Protestant cathedral, built
  in 1598; Rathaus; clock tower;
  government buildings; and
  city in general. 20 centimes was
  charged for entrance to this cathe-
  dral; we didn't enter. Got 11 letters
  in Berne which were forwarded
  from Cologne. Berne is a rather
  quaint city in so far as it has
  many arcaded streets. Fount-
  ains in most of the cities
  we have seen in Germany, Austria,
  and Switzerland are numerous.
  Left Berne about 5 P.M. Got fine
  general view of city as
  we left. The government build-
d3_p56 
  ing and cathedral are most
  prominent in such a view.
      Wednesday, Oct 21-1908.
  Weather cold, dark, damp. Roads good.
  Rode 52. Total 1986. Supper last
  night and breakfast this A.M. bread
  + coffee. Slept in barn. Left house 
  about 7. Rode thru Solothurn
  Niederbipp, Balsthal, Waldenburg,
  Hölstein, Liestal. Stopt for night
  with a family just outside of Basel.
  Solothurn is a city of about
  15 or 20 thousand, I should judge. Has
  a nice catholic church, we visited it.
  Spent on a few minutes in the city.
  Left there about 10:30. Ate dinner
  with pfarrer just before we got
  to Niederbipp. Struck Jura moun-
  tains at Niederbipp aout 1 P.M.
d3_p57 
  From 1 till nearly 5 P.M. we rode thru
  the mountains. Altho we were going
  up grade till 3 mi. from Waldenburg,
  we had no walking to do to speak of.
  Had a 3 mi. coast into Waldenburg.
  Got in Liestal about 4. Spent a half hour
  there. There was a fair being held in
  the main street, such as we have 
  seen quite often in Austria, Switzer-
  land + Germany. Little booths
  with all kinds of wares in them,
  lined both sides of the main
  street. These foreign markets +
  fairs are interesting things to visit.
  We saw the ruins of three old castles
  in the Jura mountains today.
  From Berne to Niederbipp the 
  country was gently rolling. The 
  dairy industry is most import-
  ant in this part of the country.
d3_p58 
  Most of these farms have from
  ten to thirty cows. Cows are very
  high here. They range from 200 to
  800 or even 1000 francs. Wages
  among farm hands is from 8 to 10
  francs a week, board + washing.
  During the summer months, I
  was told that as much as 3 or 4
  francs a day and board is paid
  to farm hands. Factory hands, I
  am told get about 5 or 6 francs
  a day. Milk is sold to the dealer
  by farmers for 17 1/2 francs per liter
  and retailed for 22 francs per liter.
  In the most mountainous
  parts of Switzerland, sleds are 
  used on the steep passes
  When wood or other like is to be hauled
  down the mountain side, the sled
  is carried up on a man's shoulder
d3_p59 
  loaded, and slid down. Tom-
  orrow, we leave Switzerland after
  having spent two very pleasant weeks
  in the country. I don't know that
  I ever enjoyed two weeks of travel more
  than these past two weeks. We have
  had delightful weather with the ex-
  ception of these last three days, that
  is from Geneva to Basel,- wind has
  been against us all the way, days
  dark, cold, + damp. During the rest
  of our sojourn in this beautiful
  little land we have had regular
  summer weather. As soon as
  we left Freiburg we struck German speaking
  people. 
      Thur. Oct. 22-1908. Weather 
  clear and cold. Roads good. Rode 19. Total 2005.
  Supper last night soup, macaroni, bread +
  hot milk. Slept in barn. Breakfast potatoes
  bread and coffee. Name of family 
d3_p60 
  Familii Gyger, Amstutz, Schänzli
  bei Birsfelden, Basel Switzerland.
  Left house about 8. Rode into Basel a 
  distance of about 4 kilometers. Spent
  entire day in Basel. Visited American 
  consul. Max got a lot of mail. Visited
  old Gothic Cathedral ( protestant) built
  in 1010-19, destroyed and restored)
  red sand stone. Erasmus and
  Empress Anna are buried in this
  church. Visited Rathaus, and old build-
  ing frescoed in + out, built in 17th
  century. Visited Spahlen Gate, St.
  Elizabeth's Church. Saw museum.
  Didn't enter. Ate dinner in Restaurant.
  Fine meal for 1.50 francs. Soup;
  beaf, potatoes, carrots, sliced turnips;
  bacon, sausage, craut, potatoes;
  apple fritters; bread + water. Got
  a good view of Rhine from one of
d3_p61 
  the bridges. Basel is a very busy
  city. Population between one and
  two hundred thousand. Left city
  about 4:30 P.M. Rode out into
  the country about 6 or 8 miles.
  We are spending night with
  a farmer who has a very
  cross wife. Mailed a letter to
  Will this A.M. in Basel. Sent
  four post cards this P.M. In Switzerl-
  and as in Austria and Germany
  great care is excercised on the
  railway crossings. As we left
  Montreux one day last week, we
  were compelled to wait at a 
  crossing for over four minutes.
  The gates were closed nearly five 
  minutes before the train arrived.
  The wife of the farmer with whom we are
  spending the night won't let us
d3_p62 
  in the house to write. We were
  compelled to come down here
  to this Wirtschaft to write our
  diary. I never saw such a
  woman. Everytime we came
  near the house she would 
  bawl out and call her
  husband. I rather think
  she was afraid of us.
  ----------
     End of Book III
  I bought a pair of gloves in
  Basle today for 3.95 francs. They
  would have cost me nearly twice as
  much in America. Dorfs in
  northwestern Switzerland resembled those
  of southern Germany and northern Austria-
  Hungary, in regard to manure piles
  along the front street.
d3_p63 
