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  Diary Of European Trip.
  Aug. 28-Sept 22-1908
  London Vienna
  Varnum A. Parish.
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    Fri. Aug. 28-1908
      Rode about 45 mi.
  Weather rainy all day. Left London
  at 6 A.M. on train. Got off at
  Sidcup ten miles out. Rode to
  Swanley; got there at 7:40 and
  remained there till 12:55 on account
  of rain. Swanley is 15 miles from
  London. From there I road thru
  Farningham, Wrotham, Maidstone
  and Charing to Chequers in 4 miles
  from Charing and 52 from London.
  Despite the fact that it was rainy all
  day, I enjoyed my ride. The
  narrow, winding roads were smooth
  as cement. The hills and vales with
  their green meadows, yellow grain
  fields, and verdant woods were ex-
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  ceptionally beautiful. And then there
  were the well trimmed hedges, moss
  covered stone walls, old brick and
  stone houses with tile roofs and
  big chimneys. I don't know that
  I have ever passed this much
  prettier country. There were many
  poor people tramping the roads, wait-
  ing for hop picking time. I got
  here at Chequers Inn at about a quarter
  to seven; it is a typical old English
  inn, with tile floors, big fire
  places etc. It is very cold
  tonight and the gale blowing over
  old English hills, whistling
  around this old inn sounds rather
  lonesome. I wrote Frances a letter
  and now I am going
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  to bed at 10 P.M.
      Sat Aug 29-1908. Rode 18 mi.
    Weather fair and clear this A.M. Got up
  at 9 A.M. Left the inn about noon.  
  Mrs Noble keeps the Chequer Inn at
  Challock. She seemed to be a
  nice person. It took me only
  45 minutes to ride from
  Challock to Canterbury, a
  distance of ten miles. I spent
  all this afternoon riding
  around Canterbury, The 
  clock in Christ's Church Cathed-
  ral has just struck ten. I
  visited St. Dunstan's Church
  where Sir Thomas More's
  head is burried; passed
  thru the West gate, the only
  survivor of the 6 gates of
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  Canterbury formerly existing;
  went thru the Cathedral; stood
  in the transept (N.W. one)
  where Thomas à Becket was
  murdered in 1117; saw the
  chapel where the shrine of à Becket
  once stood, the chapel on 
  the north side of which is
  burried Henry the IV.
    The Hugenots who were
  granted the privilege of using
  the Crypt of this Cathedral
  in the time of Elizabeth, to
  hold their services in
  still use it for that purpose
  so this Cathedral is a
  church in which two
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  forms of worship are practiced.
  I also visited St John's Hospital
  founded by Lanfranc; the
  "Sun Inn:, immortalized 
  by Dickens in "David
  Copperfield" as the "Little
  Inn". I saw St. Augus-
  tine's College and the ruins
  of the famous monastery
  founded by St. Augustine
  in 597. By the way, the Cathe-
  dral was founded by St. Aug-
  ustine in 597 also. I saw
  both the outside and inside
  of St. Martin's in which the
  ministrations of St. Augus-
  tine took place, and prob-
  ably the baptism of King
  Ethelbert. This is the Church
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  that was given by Ethelbert
  to his Christian wife Bertha.
  I visited many other very
  old Churches, Holy Cross
  St. Peter's, St. Paul's, St. Mil-
  dred's, St. Margaret's, St. Alph-
  ege, etc.; some of these were
  of Roman foundation and
  others of Norman foundation.
  I am stopping at Baker's
  Hotel on the main thorofare;
  it is a good house. Tonight
  as I was walking down
  the street I saw a man and 
  woman with two children
  going along singing and
  begging. Just for curiosity I
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  followed them a ways for about 
  five minutes or more and in
  that time they must have got
  over a shilling. This country
  is full of beggars. This makes
  the second man and woman 
  I have seen going along sing-
  ing and begging. Some 
  of the lanes here in Canter-
  burry are so narrow that
  two vehicles can't pass.
  About as many pedestrians
  walk on the road as on the walk.
      Sun. Aug. 30. Rode 18 mi.
    I went to 10:45 mass at
  St. Thomas' of Canterbury.
  The old men came in with
  their silk hats. Nearly all both
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  young and old men carry
  canes. The little boys wear
  white collars that turn
  down over the coat collar
  like the Puritan style.
  I left Canterbury at 2 P.M.
  and rode to Dover. It took
  me an hour and a half.
  I saw the old castle to
  the north of Dover on the
  hill. Rode around the 
  streets a while. Had my
  tea and took a 4:30 boat for 
  Ostend. Crossed the channel
  on the Princess. The distance
  is about 65 miles; fare 1st
  class, 9 shillings, 1-1/2 shilling
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  for my bicycle. Got in Ostend
  at 8:00 about. I could see
  the coast of France from
  Dover. The white cliffs near
  Dover can be seen after one
  gets miles away from them.
  I enjoyed my ride today
  from Canterbury to Dover.
  The country is beautiful,
  much the same as that
  from London to Canterbury.
  The roads weren't quite
  as good however, as they
  were not all tarred.
    In my entire ride from
  London to Dover I didn't
  go over a railroad crossing.
  The railways go either over 
  or below the wagon roads.
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  The trains and cars in England
  are very odd. The largest freight
  car I saw held only 10 tons
  One of the passenger coaches
  I rode in was divided into
  about six compartments,
  each holding about 12 people.
  To get from one compartment
  to the other, one has to leave
  the coach as there were 
  no openings between
  compartments.
    On arriving in Ostend
  I stopt at the Ship Hotel.
      Mon. Aug. 31-1908 Rode 48 mi
  Weather fair in morning; rainy
  in P.M. Spent forenoon looking
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  around the city. Got stung again at
  hotel. Paid only 4 francs for my
  lodging and breakfast but was
  charged 4.75 for my supper last 
  night. The old Hotel keeper said
  Americans, millionairs.
  Left Ostend about one; got in
  Ghent about six. Came 
  thru Bruges. The roads weren't
  near so good as those of England.
  From Ostend to Ghent the roads
  were paved with stone. There is
  a cinder bicycle path along side
  the road. The country is as
  level as a floor. I did not ride
  up a perceptible elevation
  today; lots of dog carts,
  some the dogs were pulling alone
  and others were pushed by
  men and the dogs were
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  hitched under the cart. I passed
  many little Belgian boys and
  girls in wooden shoes. Passed
  a place where they were making
  wooden shoes. Just out of
  Bruges I stopt and watched
  a threshing machine. It was
  a very small affair. Not so
  large as one of our corn shellers.
  The engine was about a three
  horse power gasoline. There were
  about 14 men in the gang.
  They threshed about 200 bushels
  a day, and that wasn't clean;
  none of the chaff was taken
  out of the grain. There were
  about 10 men taking the
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  straw from the machine and
  tieing it up in bundles. I
  stopt in a little place and
  bought some milk. It 
  cost only 10 centimes a
  glass. That is about 2 cts.
  I struck a very poor place
  to stay in Ghent tonight.
  One gets pretty lonesome
  in a place where he can
  neither understand nor
  speak a word of the language.
  These people speak Flemish:
  Some of them, however, speak
  French. If it wasn't
  for that I don't know
  what I'd do. The houses
  along the road today were
  whitewashed brick, with
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  red tile roofs. While in Bruges
  I saw the Belfry, built in the 14th
  century.
      Tues. Sept. 1-1908. Rode 31 mi.
    Weather fair A.M. Rainy P.M.
  Saw many old Churches in Ghent:
  was in one of them. I left here
  about 11 A.M. and got to Brussels
  about five. I rode 30 miles
  despite the facts that the roades
  were bad and it rained and
  blew nearly all the afternoon.
  It was a miserable day for
  travel. My bed and breakfast
  last night cost me only
  1.50 francs and that was
  all it was worth. There was
  not much difference between the sights
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  of today's ride and yesterday's except
  that the land is rather rolling
  from Ghent to Brussel.
      Wednesday Sept. 2-1908
  Weather Raining all day.
  Rode about 16 miles
  around the city of Brussels.
  This forenoon I visited the
  town hall, the exchange; rode
  up and down the main street of
  the city, the boulevard Anspach
  saw the Martyr's Monument,
  erected in memory of the
  patriots killed fighting against
  the Dutch in 1830; botanical
  gardens, Column of Congress,
  Chambers of Deputies, Palace
  of Justice, a magnificent
  building made of Belgian
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  granite; Statues of Counts
  Egmont + Horn; Cathedrals of
  St. Gudule; Royal Museum
  of Paintings, which contains
  a splendid collection of old
  and modern masters, also
  Flemish Tapestry. I enjoyed
  particularly the paintings
  of Rubens, some of which
  were "Adoration des
  Mages", "Le Christ mon-
  tant an Calvarie", and
  "Couronnement de la
  Vierge." I also visited
  the Wirtz Museum. The 
  paintings in this museum
  indicate great eccent-
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  ricity on the part of the
  artist. Some of the paintings
  that impressed me most 
  were the "Revolt of Hell against
  Heaven," "The Triumph of
  Christ" + "The Giant of the
  Earth." All the works in this 
  museum had what one
  might call a striking person-
  ability. It was easy to
  recognize that they were
  all from the brush of the
  same artist.
      Thu. Sept. 3-1908.
  Weather Fine. Rode about 30
  miles. Went out to the Battle
  field of Waterloo on my
  wheel this A.M. Got a fine
  view of the field from
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  the top of Lion Mound. This
  is naught but a mound
  about two or three hundred
  feet high with the Anglo
  Netherland Lion on the
  top. I could see from here
  the conveyance of the two
  roads and the cross
  road forming the letter
  A. On my way to + from
  the field I passed La Bois
  de la Cambre. From my
  hotel to the battle field and
  back was about 25 miles.
  I was just an hour riding
  back to Brussels from
  Waterloo. This after noon
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  at five, I took the train for
  Berlin. My ticket cost 32.50
  francs and my wheel coupon
  cost 3.60 francs. I traveled
  3rd class. Passed thru Cologne,
  Hannover, and Potsdam.
  Got in Berlin about 9 A.M.
  on Friday Sept 4-1908
  Weather fine A.M. Rainy in P.M. 
  Didn't do any
  riding today as my wheel 
  did not arrive. I won't get 
  it til tomorrow. Thru some
  reason or other it was taken
  off at the last station in
  Belgium. A German tried
  to explain it to me, but my
  knowledge of German was
  to meagre for me to
  understand him.
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  I forgot to mention that while 
  in Brussels I stopt at the
  Hotel Ebel 92-93 Boulevard
  D' Anderlecht. My lodging
  cost me 2.50 francs a day.
  Meals cost me about the same.
  It was a fair hotel.
    Last night on the train I
  one a young instructor from
  one of the German Gymnasiums
  in Cologne. His name was
  Paul Wollmann. He
  could speak good English.
  He advised one where to stop
  in Berlin. I took his advice
  and upon my arrival here
  I put up at the Central Hotel
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  on Friederick Strasse, which
  I found to be an excellent
  hotel. My room cost me
  4 marks a day. This is
  one of the largest hotels in
  Berlin. After breakfasting
  at 10 A.M. I spent
  the rest of my day writing,
  and walking around
  the town. I ate breakfast
  at the Heidelberger and
  supper in the Terminus.
  These are both on Friedrich
  Strasse, not far from
  the Central Hotel.
      Sat. Sep. 5-1908
  Fine A.M. and P.M.
  Rode about 14 miles. Slept
  late this morning. Spent
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  most of the afternoon in
  riding about the city. Some
  of the places of interest that
  I visited were the British
  embassy, Brandenburg gate;
  Konigsplatz with the Column
  of victory in its center;
  the Houses of Parliament
  which are on the east of
  Konigsplatz; Sieges-Allee
  containing 32 marble
  statues of Prusian Rulers;
  Hofjaeger allee; Grosser
  Stern in which are five
  Bronze groupes of hunting
  scenes, boar, buffalo, deer,
  hare, and fox. Changed my
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  lodging place tonight. Went
  from the Central Hotel over to
  Alte Heidelberg Hotel on Univer-
  sitat Strasse. I got my
  room and breakfast for 3
  marks, but the room didn't
  begin to be so good as the
  one I had at the Central
  Hotel.
    Sun. Sept. 6-1908.
  Weather Dark and cold A.M.
  Rainy P.M. Rode 18 miles.
  Went to 8:30 mass at
  St. Hedwig's Church. I spent
  from 10 A.M. till nearly 2 P.M.
  riding about the city. I
  rode out to Charlottenburg.
  Saw the Rathaus, Royal Palace
  and Garden at Charlotten-
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  burg; the mausoleum in
  which are Fredric William III
  and Queen Louis, and
  Emperor William I and
  Empress Augusta. I also
  saw the Royal Academ-
  y of Music and Art and
  the Artillery Engineering
  school; Augusta Victoria
  Platz; William memorial
  Church; Zoological Gardens
  Victoria Park, Herren Haus,
  Imperial Post-Museum.
  I neglected to mention in yesterdays
  account that I visited the Royal
  Palace and Stables in Berlin;
  Austgarten and the Cathedral
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  thereby; Royal Theater; St. Hed-
  wig's Church; and the University
  buildings. The thot occurred to
  me as I passed the King's Palace
  with its barred windows and
  guarded entrances that I'd rather
  live in a humble cottage, where
  I might leave my door
  unbolted than live as a king.
  One might about as well
  be in a prison as in a
  royal Palace. At either side
  of the portals their stood
  a soldier with a gun
  on his arm ready to shoot
  any unwelcome tresspasser.
  I had some little trouble 
  in Berlin finding out 
  what streets one could
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  not ride a wheel on. The
  principal streets. Friederick 
  Strasse, Unter den Linden,
  and Leipsiger Strasse are
  all streets on which
  bicycle riding is forbidden.
  Often was I hailed by
  a police and told "Hier ist
  es verboten zu fahren." I
  always feigned to know
  no German at all. After
  some little difficulty the
  officer would succeed in
  explaining to me what
  he meant. I would say
  all right and walk off
  with an innocent
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  look on my face. I left
  Berlin this afternoon about
  4:45 and got in Breslau
  about ten. My fare
  was 11.50 marks. I
  passed thru Frankfort
  Leignitz and many other
  small cities. Tonight
  I am stopping at the
  Hohenzollem Hof. It 
  is a good hotel and yet
  my room is costing
  me old 2.50 marks.
      Mon. Sept. 7-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 57 miles. 
  This is about the first day I have
  had without a bit of rain. I
  got up late, breakfasted and took a
  five mile ride around the town.
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  Returned to the hotel; packed up and
  started for Oppeln about 2 P.M.
  At 7:30 tonight I was in
  Oppeln. I had ridden about
  52 miles. That is the best I
  have done yet 52 miles in
  less than six hours. I passed
  thru Ohlauer and Brieg, and
  many small towns. Ohlauer
  is about half way between
  Breslan and Brieg; and
  Brieg is half way between
  Breslan and Oppeln. I
  rode my first 25 miles in
  two hours. The roads were
  elegant - all the way. It
  was lined with a row of
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  apple trees on each side
  nearly the entire distance. I
  could reach up and pluck a
  rosy apple without even getting
  off my wheel. I ate several.
  Just out of Ohlauer I saw
  a gang of women working
  on the section. It looked
  odd I must say. The fields
  were full of women haying. I
  passed many barns where
  the flail was being used; others
  where the grain was being
  threshed in a little machine
  about the size of a fanning
  mill, usually turned by
  women. The men seemed
  to prefer to feed the machine.
  Women also tied the straw
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  up in bundles. The fields are
  much bigger and houses much
  farther apart than in
  Belgium. Many of the fields
  were as large as ours. The land
  here is all divided into strips
  which are marked off by
  numbered stones. Most
  of the farmers were plowing,
  some with horses, others
  with oxen. I saw one field
  in which the plowing was
  done by steam. There were two
  engines one on each side
  of the field and the big gang
  plow was pulled back and
  forth across the field.
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  Teams in this country were
  of various kinds- both oxen
  and horses. I passed one
  man driving a cow with
  a horse. It looked odd to me.
  Many farmers drive their cows.
    Geese are numerous in this
  country. I passed many
  a little German boy
  herding a flock of geese. Again
  today I saw boys with
  baskets gathering horse
  manure off the roads. Most
  of the buildings are brick and
  stone with tile roofs. Many are
  wooden frames filled in with
  brick. One can see the entire
  frame of such a building.
  The little children going to
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  and from school carry their
  books in a knap sack on their
  back instead of under their
  arms.
    I stopt about 12 miles out
  of Oppeln about 6 o'clock
  and bought 20 pfennigs
  worth of buns and cake. I
  rode too far this P.M. I 
  was completely tired out
  tonight when I arrived here.
      Tuesday. Sept. 8-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode about 33 mi.    
  Left the Hotel Schwarzer
  Adler about 9:30 for
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  Januschkowitz. Went by way
  of Proskau, Krappitz, and Ober-
  vitz. Ate dinner in Krappitz.
  The country was much the same
  as that that I came through yester-
  day. The roads, however, were very
  bad- sandy in places. Got in
  Januschkowitz at 4:15 P.M. I was
  directed by the storekeeper to Jury's
  Godmother's house where I waited
  for Jury. He was out in the country.
  Got in about six o'clock. After
  eating some rye bread and drinking
  some coffee I went with Jury to
  a nearby dorf to a Polish
  wedding. It would be easier
  to enumerate what they didn't
  have to eat and drink than
  to tell what they had. After
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  the supper we went to a Polish
  dance. It would make one dizzy
  to watch them. Their polkas,
  mazurkas and waltzes were
  all very fast and the dancers
  turned ever and ever the same
  way. These people all speak
  both German and Polish. Upon
  our arrival at the house after the
  dance, we had some coffee and
  polish cake, then went to
  bed in the barn. The house
  was so full of guests that part of
  us had to sleep in the barn.
      Wednesday. Sept. 9-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode none today.
  Spent the entire day loafing
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  around the house. Wrote mother
  and Frances. Jury was taken
  very ill last night and as a result
  he remained in bed all day. I
  believe he ate, drank, and danced too
  much last night. It would make
  me sick to dance one of those dances
  let alone the eating + drinking.
  We sleep in the barn again tonight.
      Thursday. Sept. 10-1908
  Weather fine. Rode about 32 mil.
  We left Lesch-
  nitz this A.M. and rode to
  Slawentzitz to see a cousin
  of Jury's by the name of Przyklink
  He has a nice family, two
  daughters and two sons.
  Only one of the two son's is at
  home. There was also at
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  the house a niece of the family.
  These are the nicest people I
  have seen in this part of the
  country. Immediately upon
  our arrival at Przyklink's
  we were given sandwiches
  and coffee and also liquor.
  After spending an hour or
  so here we went to Strehlitz
  to look for a nephew of Jury's
  but were unable to find him.
  We returned to Przyklink's and
  spent the rest of the day and 
  night. Upon our return we
  ate and drank coffee again.
  We ate supper at about six
  and after that we went to
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  a neighboring town named
  Ujest. There was quite a crowd
  of young German people. We went
  to hear a military band concert.
  I went with Mary Przyklink.
  A young German girl that
  couldn't speak a word of
  English. I used up all the
  German I know and then
  butchered a lot that I
  didn't know. Nevertheless
  I got along quite well. Upon
  our arrival in Ujest we found
  that the concert had taken place
  in the afternoon. We went to
  a Gasthaus and drank 
  and talked. Here in Germany
  the men sit on one side of
  the table and ladies on the
  other. It looks odd to an
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  American. We left this Gast-
  haus and went to another
  where we drank again.
  We also danced. I tried one
  of these German waltzes
  and after dancing round
  and round the same way
  for about 2 minutes I was
  so dizzy I couldn't stand.
  We left this Gasthaus and 
  returned home. It was a 
  beautiful evening and a 
  beautiful walk home in
  the moonlight. The young
  German people sang all
  the way home. They have
  some very pretty songs.
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  Upon our arrival home we
  ate and drank again. We spent
  the night with the son of the
  family, Johannes H. Przyklink,
  who rooms in a neighboring
  house because of the lack
  of room in his own
  home. He has some very
  cozy little rooms.
      Friday. September 11-1908.
  Weather dark and rainy.
  We slept late this A.M.
  Breakfasted at 9 A.M.
  at Mr. + Mrs. Przyklink's
  The room I slept in had a 
  big enamel brick oven in
  it. Nearly all the rooms
  I have been in in Germany
  are heated in this way.
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  We didn't travel a bit today because
  of the unpleasant weather. For dinner
  today we had pea soup and steamed Klö
  a dish that we don't have in America. It
  is a kind of dumpling upon which
  one eats a plum sauce dressing.
  It is very good. In this country it
  is customary to take only a cup of
  coffee and some buns upon rising,
  then at 9 or 10 a lunch, coffee and
  buns, perhaps, cheese or sausage as 
  well; dinner at noon; lunch
  again at 3 or 4 ; supper at seven.
  All the farmers in this vicinity live
  in dorfs instead of on their farms.
  This is one reason for the need of
  good roads ( in this country called
  chaussees ) because the farmer
  must go to and from his farm
  every day.
d2_p42 
  This afternoon Julia Przyklink and
  Max, Hilda Bembenek and I visited
  Prince Hohenlohe-Oehringen's Schloss
  and garden. He hasa beautiful estate.
  He owns nearly the entire dorf of Sla-
  wentzitz and much of the surround-
  ing country. We met a little German
  Princess in the garden. She passed us
  on her wheel and bid us the time of the
  day. We also visited the mill where
  Johannes works. Upon our return
  home we had supper which consisted
  of boiled potatoes, herring, cheese,
  bread and tea. We spent most
  of the evening talking to old Mr.
  Przyklink, telling him about the
  wonderful things in America, in
  fact this is the way we spend
  most of our evenings, telling
  the people about America.
d2_p43 
  They sit and listen, awestricken
  most of the time. I liked this family
  very well; they were more refined and
  cleaner about the house than any I
  have visited in this vicinity. About
  9:30 Julia, Hilda, Max, and I went
  over to the Gasthaus across
  the way and spent a hour or more
  watching Johannes and some other
  young fellow practising gymnastics
  in the Show house, which is part
  of the Gasthaus. After that they
  had orchestra practice. During all
  this time we drank pop and talked
  German. We spent the night with
  Johannes again.
      Saturday. Sept.12-1908.
  Wather dark and cool. Rode 30 miles.
  Left Przyklink's this A.M. about 
d2_p44 
  9, and rode back to Lyczko's
  in Leschnitz. We went to 
  Annaberg this forenoon to visit
  the shrine. We passed many crouds
  of Poles going to the shrine on a
  pilgrimage. The piety in this count-
  ry is remarkable. One can ride
  scarcely a quarter of a mi. without
  passing a shrine or a cross along
  the road side. Many of these
  pilgrims come as far as 80 miles
  on foot. They carry their food
  with them. The women have a
  sort of knapsack that they carry on
  their back. These crouds go along
  and stop in front of every cross
  or shrine by the way, kneel and
  pray and sing. They always
  carry the cross in their process-
d2_p45 
  ions. There must have been at least
  2000 Poles at the shrine of St. Ann's today.
  I was told that there were at times as
  many as 80,000 there in one day.
  The shrine is situated on the highest
  ground in the country, a hill about
  2000 feet in height. There is an
  old Franciscan monastery on
  the hill, also. There are 14 little shrines
  on this hill and each one is a station 
  of the cross. The passion is
  represented by figures instead of
  pictures. This was all entirely new
  to me. Returned to Lyczko's
  for dinner, from there to Januschkowitz,
  then to the old mill where Jury was
  born, thence to Woschek's home
  where we had some blood sausage,
  and rye bread for lunch. Woschek
d2_p46 
  is the student that we met at the
  dance the other night. From
  his house we came here to Leschitz.
  We are staying with a cousin of
  Jury by name Ignatz Frandrych.
  Got here about 6:30. Had for supper
  sausage, Polish cake, buns, and
  tea. I drank about 6 cups of
  tea. I haven't done much all
  evening but drink tea 
  and smoke. This is a nice
  cozy little house. There is a little
  grocery store in the front of it.
  Rode thru Cosel on my way here.
    Sun. Sept.13-1908.
  Weather dark cold + rainy. Went to
  eight o' clock mass. The conge-
  gation was nearly all Polish.
d2_p47 
  The women with shawls on
  heads all sat on one side of the
  church, and the men all sat on the
  other. Little boys sat on the
  floor right in front of the sanctuary
  and the little girls sat just
  behind them on the floor also.
  The Poles certainly have lots of
  exterior piety. The men remove
  their hast as soon as they come
  in the church yard. Spent 
  most of the day in the house
  writing, eating, drinking
  and smoking. I slept about
  four hours this afternoon.
      Monday. Sept.14-1908.
  Weather fair + cool. Rode none. 
  Spent the entire day around
  the house eating and writing.
  Wrote to Mother + Francis this
d2_p48 
  evening. Jury and I cleaned
  our bicycle chains today. A funeral
  passed here today. All were walking 
  except the priest; the pallbearers
  had poles under the coffin and the
  poles on their shoulders. I guess
  there was a Pole in the coffin,
  too. I never saw a funeral
  like this before.
      Tuesday.Sep.15-1908.
  Weather fair and cool. Rode 29 mi.
  Had coffee and rye bread with lard
  on it for breakfast. Left Fandrych's
  around 9 A.M. Rode to Leopold Jura-
  schek's in Olberdorf. There we 
  had dinner which consisted of
  rye bread, coffee, sausage, potato
  and a kind of cheese. This
  was another typical Polish house.
  There was a sick baby on
d2_p49 
  the kitchen table where I ate. The kitchen
  was anything but clean. From here
  we rode to some more of Jury's relations
  in Zülz. There we left our bag-
  gage and rode to Paul Fuch's in 
  Radstein; we spent the night
  here. For supper we had a plate
  of rice, rye bread, and Russian
  tea. The rice and tea I enjoyed
  but the rye bread I have got mighty
  tired of. Again tonight we sleep
  under a feather bed. Mr. Fuchs
  like nearly all of these farmers has a
  big pool in front of his back door
  where all the manure from the barns/
  The pump from which he gets his
  drinking water is within a few
  feet ( about 20 ) of this stinking
  pool. Their method of keeping their
  manure surely makes good manure
d2_p50 
  but it makes an awful unwholesome
  back yard.
      Wednesday. Sept.16-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 59 miles.
  Rose at 6:30. Left Fuch's at 7:30
  and rode back to Zülz for our baggage.
  For breakfast this morning we had
  the rye bread and coffee again.
  From Zülz we rode thru Neisse,
  Ottmashau, Patshkau, Reich-
  enstein to Glatz. We spent
  the night just beyond Glatz,
  at a big dairy. For supper
  tonight we had rice, potatoes,
  and sour milk. There were 45
  men and women working at
  this dairy. They all ate in the
  kitchen which was a large dirty
  room with arched ceilings.
  About 5 or 6 would eat out of the
d2_p51 
  same pan. Most of these people
  spoke Polish. We slept in the barn
  on the straw. Today we had things 
  against us. I was a little under-
  the weather; the wind was strong
  against us; and we had many
  mountains to climb. We didn't
  strike the mountains till this
  afternoon. They were the Reesen-
  Gebergs. The scenery this
  afternoon was very beautiful.
  Most of the forests were pine.
     Thursday. Sept.17-1908
  Weather cool and dark. Rode 59 mi.
  Left the dairy this A.M. at 8. We
  had hot milk and rye bread
  for breakfast before leaving.
  I felt much better today.
d2_p52 
  The hot milk that I drank yester-
  day did me lots of good. We stopt in
  at a priests house yesterday and
  asked for boiled milk. I got 2
  glasses. This morning we had
  many hills to climb. The
  mountains were very beautiful.
  Nearly all the land is under cul-
  tivation. We passed thru Alt Heida,
  Rückers, Reinerz which were pretty
  little watering places. Near Lewin
  we had a coast of about 4 miles.
  It was great sport. We stop at
  Nochode for dinner. We
  visited the priest in this town and
  he insisted upon us eating with him.
  The cook started to give us our dinner
  in the kitchen but the old priest would
  not listen to it. He said we were
  to eat with him. He was glad to
d2_p53 
  meet two American students. There
  were two young chaplains at the house
  also. We had the best dinner I have
  eaten in some time,- vegetable
  soup, rye bread, meat, carrots, and
  gravy, more meat and potatoes,
  plumb dumplings with butter and
  honey on them. Max ate 14 and I ate
  11. They tasted about as good as anything
  I have ever eaten. Just before our black
  coffee, which came last, the old priest
  went out and soon returned with
  two glasses of beer. The name of the
  old priest was Frantisek Antonin
  Pecka. The young priests were 
  Josef Musil and Jaroslov Zdarek.
  The address of all these priests 
  was Nachod, Bohemia. We
  left the old priests house about two.
  We wished all kinds of luck
d2_p54 
  and told us to send him a card from
  America. We passed thru Jaromer and
  Königgratz stopping just beyond the
  later place to spend the night. We 
  rode about 32 miles this afternoon.
  We left Germany this A.M. at 11:30
  and rode into Bohemia. Nachod
  was the first town of any size that 
  we struck in Austria.
      Friday. Sept. 18-1908.
  Weather fine. Rode 51 miles. We staid
  at farm house last night. At supper time
  lady gave us a plate of scrambled eggs,
  rye bread, fine tea with hot cream and
  snapps. Jury understands these Bohemians
  very well. We slept in a room last night
  that was about 20 x 20. Would have had
  a fine sleep had it not been for a man
  with the asthma who slept in
  same room with us. Started out
d2_p55 
  at 10 this A.M. after breakfasting on
  coffee and rye bread. We passed thru
  Chlumec just before noon. At 12 we
  left main Chaussee and went up to a little
  dorf on the hill side where we saw a cath-
  olic church. Found no priest in this village.
  Saw another church farther up on a hill. Hesita-
  ed in going to it for we could see no sur-
  rounding building. However, on our arrival
  there we found the priest's house and a little
  dorf down in the hollow behind the church.
  Max told the old priest that we were Amer-
  ican students. He took us into the dining
  room, gave some snapps and little cakes.
  The he asked us what we wanted to eat
  and drink. We told him, and we had
  scrambled eggs, rye bread, and coffee.
  After that he brought on some fine
  wine, apples, plumbs, grapes, + nuts.
  We visited and ate for about 2 hours.
d2_p56 
  Left the house at a quarter to three. Passed,
  thru Podebrady this P.M. By the way, the 
  name of the priest we visited was Josef
  Patek. Vrbici, Bohemia. His chaplain's
  name was Hugo Bitterman. Tonight
  we slept just outside Prague at a 
  little place called Ober-Počernitz.
  Max asked for lodging but was
  unable to get it because of a law
  that prohibits people in vicinity
  of Prague from taking in strangers.
  The young fellow at the house said
  that he would pay our lodging at
  the hostinec near by and we
  could send him some cards when
  we returned to America. We accepted
  his offer. His name is Hugo Nowak.
  He was a young student. He spoke
  good German. We have been passing
  thru a very fertile country these
d2_p57 
  last few days. The chaussees are 
  lined with apple and plum trees. The
  fruit is guarded by men who live
  along the roads in little straw
  huts. We passed another big steam
  plow this evening. By the way, we
  were in the court yard of a
  Hohenlohen Schloss in Podebrady
  this P.M. Catholic houses in this
  vicinity are marked by a cross;
  Protestant houses by a chalice.
  The schools that are both Catholic
  and Protestant have both the
  cross and chalice on them.
  This mark is usually right
  under the gable.
      Sat. 19-1908.
  Weather fine and cool. Rode 12 miles.    
  Buns and coffee for breakfast. Cost of
  lodging and breakfast for two was 1.20
d2_p58 
  krones and even then Max thot it was
  too much. Rode into Prague early. Got
  a lodging place and the proceeded to visit
  the town. The BlauenStern is a good
  hotel in Prague. We visited Bohemian nat-
  ional museum, Cathedral containing maus-
  oleum wherein some Bohemian kings are
  buried, Czernin Palace and Imperial
  Palace, Teynkirche where Tycho Brahe
  is buried, Wallenstein's Palace, Charles
  Bridge crossing the Moldan ( It was on
  this bridge that the heads of the Protestant
  nobles were exposed for 10 years.) many
  churches not mentioned here.
  Most of the people in Prague are Bohemians
  and many of them speak only that
  language. We got both our dinner
  and supper at the kitchen of the 
  priest's house at St. Francis' church near Chas. Bridge.
      Sun.Sept.20-1908
d2_p59 
  Weather fair. cool, windy. Rode 45 mi.
  Breakfasted on coffee and buns and left
  Prague at 8 A.M. Stopt at noon in a
  little town named Pischely and 
  had dinner with the priest there, Fr.
  Ulrich Koza. We had a fine meal.
  We went to 7 o' clock mass this A.M. before
  leaving Prague. The country we rode
  over today was very rolling
  and pretty. Pine forests were rather 
  numerous. About 5 P.M. Jury's double
  gear broke. We put up at a farm house just
  beyond Votice. Slept in the hay over the
  barn. Had rye bread and coffee for
  supper.
      Mon. Sept.21-1908.
  Weather fair cool. Rode 32 miles.
  Jury and I spent the entire forenoon trying
  to fix wheel but we accomplished noth-
  ing. We had a fine place to sleep last
  night. Breakfasted on rye bread and
d2_p60 
  coffee this A.M. I rode to Votice right
  after breakfast for a wire for jury's wheel. I
  coasted into Votice in five min-
  utes. After a dinner of vegatable
  soup and rye bread Jury took his
  entire wheel to Votice but found
  that nothing could be done for
  it. We then decided to go to Tabor.
  He went by rail and I on my wheel.
  Upon his arrival there he again found
  that he was unable to get it fixed.
  He leaves for Vienna by rail
  tonight. I rode out of Tabor and
  stopt at a hostinec in a little
  dorf about 7 miles south of the 
  city.
      Tuesday. Sept. 22-1908
  Weather fair and a little windy. Rode
  78 miles. Left the hostinec
  about 8:45. My lodging, supper
d2_p61 
  and breakfast cost me 1.72 Krones.
  Had 4 eggs, rye bread, and tea for supper.
  Good bed. Coffee and buns for
  breakfast. I put 4 buns in my
  pocket to eat at noon. Rode thru
  Veseli, Lomnice, Wittingau to
  St. Magdalena by noon. From the
  hill at Veseli I could count 18 little
  dorfs and stadts. I had dinner
  with Karl Vanis, Pparrer, in
  St. Magdalena, bei Withingau, Boh-
  emia. In P.M. I rode thru Schwar-
  tzbach, Schrems, Vitis, Schwartz-
  enau, Göfritz, to a little dorf 6
  kilometers from Horn. Just beyond
  Schrems I stopt in Schwarza and
  visited the priest. I had a cup of
  coffee and a bun with him. He was
  very congenial. He asked me to
  smoke with him and when I left
d2_p62 
  he offered me money which I didn't
  take. His name and address is: Alois
  Scheidl, Pfarrer in Schwarza.
  Post: Schrems-Nieder Österreich.
  His nephew, a priest also, was visiting
  him. His address and name is: Josef
  Scheidl, Kirchberg am Walde,
  Nieder Österreich. I passed thru
  rather beautiful country today. At 1:30
  I rode across the line out of Bohemia into
  Austria. The land I rode thru was pretty
  poor in places, sandy, stony, and heavily
  wooded,- not nearly so fertile as
  Bohemia. Nearly all the forests were pine.
  I passed very few fruit trees today.
  Most of the oxen I saw today were
  pulling with their heads instead of
  having yolks or collars on them.
  I am spending tonight in
  a Gasthaus six Kilometers
  from Horn.
